Following on from a thread started by SteveM last year on UK Fatbikes forum on coastal bivvying, I suggested Islay (West Coast, Inner Hebrides) might have some good possbilities - thought I'd better put my money where my post was so I went up last week for a crack at the planned route, with no idea if this was a 'goer'. My work has been nuts recently so I only got round to final planning for this a week or so before.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/99percentchimp/sets/72157643798650483/Anyway, last Wednesday evening I drove up late to Kennacraig on the Kintyre and crashed in the van for the night after hasty packing. Made the 0700 sailing (as a foot passenger with bike ~ £12.50 return) which I hoped would give me about 3.5 days before the Sunday return at 1300 I was planning to make. I arrived in Port Elen on the south coast with a view to circum-navigating as much of the cast as possible and visiting the handily placed 8-9 distilleries in the process.
I crossed the Oa Peninsula and joined the 7km beach of Laggan Bay at the campsite at Kintra.
Islay-Fat-Bike-7 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
A few river crossing on the way up and a cycel round the Laggan Point got me to Bowmore. Distillery visit, brew stop (shops if you need them) then a bit of road work to Bridgend (woods out of the drizzle that was setting in) followed by beachs and turf to Bruichladdich. Nice coffee and cake and craich in Debbies then a visit and tour of the distillery hiding from the rain. Very hospitable folk and some great whisky.
Late afternoon was down to Port Charlotte and over the Rhinns to Kilchiaran where a track leads over to Machir Bay and a another pristine beach to cycle on. Up to Kilchoman to see the celtic cross and on past distillery no. 3 to Gruinart and north to camp at Ardnave Point for the night with views of the Paps of Jura. I had planned on crossing from Sanaigmore to Ardnave - looks doable but the weather wasn't right this time.
Islay-Fat-Bike-31 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Day 2 I thought would be the crux of the route. Back down and round Loch Gruniart and onto the north coast via farm tracks and beachs. These eventually disappear and a day of following deer track and beachs begins. This bit was hard work scrabbling up and down some of the cliffs of the raised beaches but the coastal scenery was fantastic. I worked my way north east past Sgairail and Mala Bholsa, turning east past Port Chotain ond onto the remote beach at Bagh an Da Dhorius - I saw no one all day - just deer, birds and seals. Clear views of Oronsay, Colonsay and Mull all day!.
Islay-Fat-Bike-51 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Islay-Fat-Bike-55 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Islay-Fat-Bike-64 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
I wanted to make sure I could clear this coast that evening as the forecast for Friday was bad so I camped at Rubh a' Mhail on the NE point of Islay on Friday night - great view of the Paps of Jura.
Islay-Fat-Bike-84 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Following morning at 0600 I followed the quad bike track route used by the light house residents south to visit the distilleries at Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila as the wether got bad. I spent
afternoon in Port Askaig hiding form the thunder storms, sorting some drive train issues (chain ring bolts) and had a great local pint and lunch in the pub.
Islay-Fat-Bike-90 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Once the rain looked like it might clear I made a break for the bothy (open mountain shelter) on the east coast, An Cladach, getting soaked on the way around Loch Ballygrant and down through the Lossit
Estate to the coast. Quite a lot of this coast is very rideable (esp. if you are better rider then me - easy!), I had to wade a few swollen crossings and changed into a pair of fell/running shoes a couple of time for tricky carry/scramble sections.
Islay-Fat-Bike-97 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
An Cladach bothy is excellent - one of the best I've ever stayed in. Peaceful and empty on a Saturday night - most likely only due to the weather.
Islay-Fat-Bike-122 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Sunday saw a very early start as I had no idea, once commited to this section of coast, whether I'd make the ferry early afternoon. Again lots of this was rideable down to McArthurs Head and the lighthouse. I climbed the steps to the lighthouse (for the views mainly along the sound of Islay) but regretted the push/carry across Beinn na Caillich Beag - I'd recommend looking at the under cliff if the tide is right - possible better option than the hillside above.
Nice ride along the beach to the 'bothy' (don't plan to stay here) at Proaig but the final push was the ankle deep bogs from here to the 'end of hostilities' at Ardtalla. This added a bit of a delay (as well as one puncture below McArthurs Head).
Islay-Fat-Bike-131 by
99percentchimp, on Flickr
Nice morning of improving weather at Kildalton Cross (1300 years old) saw me drop into all three final distilleries - Ardbeg has a very good visitors center and they are very cyclist friendly.
I made it the ferry with 10 minutes to spare. Treated myself to big fish and chips on the ferry before the long drive home.
I would do this again any time - a great and varied route with a wilderness feel in many parts. The distilleries were a nice bonus but the location of the shops round the route means it could be done very light weight. I wouldn't leave it much later than early June as the bracken will be chest height and make picking out the deer trods and rocks very hard when trying the true off road sections. Midges weren't too bad 'cos of the coastal breeze but make sure you check for ticks - several on me on my return.... nice!
Anyone want any pointers or info let me know. Will be planning to return next spring with a trip to either the islands Jura or Colonsay thrown in.
