My first bikepacking (solo) trip through Maah Daah Hey trail

[stumpyfsr]

Hello, fellow riders! I would like to share my experience from  a trip through Maah Daah Hey trail in North Dakota.
Everything began with  the idea of doing something unusual for my 30th Birthday. I had a few other ideas on what to do but decided to go with Maah Daah Hey - the longest continuous singletrack I know. Plus, it's fairly close to home comparing to West Coast, and also a well known as MTB Mecca.
Since I have only one, full-suspension bike at the moment, I've decided to go with the  lightest gear I have and carry it in the backpack. It was a huge mistake, I know.
Here's a list of my gear:
- Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 29er Comp with KS adjustable seatpost and Zu-Zu pedals
- Osprey Atmos 65 backpack with 3L bladder and 1L bottle
- BA Jack Rabbit SL2 tent (I like comfort)
- Marmot Atom 40+ sleeping bag and REI Treker pad
- 2 spare tubes, patch kit, shock & tire pumps, multi-tool, duck-tape, rope, derailer hanger, zip-ties, quick-link, brake pads, handlebar light and hiking headlight with extra batteries, lighter and magnesium fire starter, bug spray, first aid kit
- mini-stove, pot, folding knife, spoon, mug
- freeze dried food, cliff bars, Gatorade powder, tea, sugar, beef jerky, trail mix
- map and Garmin Oregon 450t GPS for navigation
I wanted to go there on the last week of April but there was no water on campgrounds yet, so I went there one week later. Shuttle along with many helpful tips were provided by Dakota Cyclery.

When arrived to Bennett Camp, I put a tent, ate dinner, and fell asleep. It was raining all night  but the morning was sunny and windy, so I was waiting for a ground to dry up a little. At 1pm I've decided that the trail is dry enough. So I  crossed a little creek and with no fear started riding up the Cottonwood Trail. After 0.8 miles my wheels stoped rolling and I turned around to try my luck on an alternate route. I knew, I had to gain some elevation to reach dryer ground. Long story short, that day I was fighting sticky clay most of the afternoon but finally got to dryer trail. I was impressed by remoteness and beauty of the area. Wildlife, such as wild turkey, whitetail deer, and some other deer were spotted.  Also fresh cougar footprints were found on the trail.

Ticks. These vampires were everywhere. Bug spray helped a bit but still at the end of the day I counted 28 ticks on my shorts only... The light thermal layer I was wearing allowed me to stay safe from bites during the whole ride.
Since I left Bennett Camp so late, I didn't make it to the next camp before dusk. It is impossible to ride this trail at night. Marker posts are visible at daytime but not at night. And it's very easy to get confused by sometimes better developed animal trail even with daylight. Tent was set on elevated dry plateau, beef jerky and trail mix for dinner because I ran out of water. Coyotes were hawling "Good night".
Day One threw me out of my schedule...
Next morning I quickly packed my stuff and started riding. I wish I had a rack for my gear. 42 pounds on my back was a lot more then I thought I want to handle...
Rolling resistance was huge because tires were sinking in soft barely ridden trail. But the scenery was well worth the effort...  Petrified stumps, silty creeks, landscape that changes it's face after every rain...
Finally I got to the second camp where I supposed to be the night before. At that very moment there was nothing tasted better than water. After a breakfast-lunch combo and hot tea I refilled with water and start riding to cover another 20 miles to the next camp. At this point I realized that it's impossible to reach my goal of covering the whole thing in 3 days.
Despite the already mentioned rolling resistance I was riding much faster then on day 1. Very steep climbs I was hiking. Downhills was a pleasure especially with a seat-drop. According to my  map I was gaining elevation during the first two days and a half of the day 3.

Day three was memorable for a really strong NW wind, up to 39 mph. That helped sometimes when riding in SE direction. But when the wind attacked me from the side, I barely kept control over of the bike. On one occasion when I lifted my front wheel over an obstacle, the wind blew me and my bike out of the trail. Landing in the high  grass wasn't bad, even somewhat pleasant at some point.
What I should have really packed with me, is Chain Lube. Usually that lube stands up to 100+ miles. But unusually muddy conditions caused a regular chainsuck in smaller chain ring on second day. Luckily that day I met a family at a campsite who were so nice as to  give me the lube. That helped a lot.
Setting up a tent in that strong wind was a challenge too. No need to say that cooking dinner was an inside-the-tent event.
For some unknown reason water from the bladder was spilled and successfully absorbed by my sleeping bag during a day. I made a mental note to pack it in a waterproof bag during future trips. All the above mentioned inconveniences did not bother me at all because I was under the influence of the surrounding me nature, air filled with sage aroma and wildlife sounds. And the trail itself is so awesome - a real off-road.

A special note about my descent to the third camp: that is one sweet series of switchbacks. The best descent on Maah Daah Hey!
Also on the third day I noticed that after the crossing  Little Missouri River trail was packed, ridden more, and better maintained.
Day 4 was supposed to be the toughest with almost 30 miles to Medora. But that day there was less wind, less climb and a bit lighter pack. I was stopping frequently at prairie dog cities or just taking pictures here and there. I passed by Buffalo Gap camp, rode a bit more and saw I-94. After not seeing any human for a three days a freeway to me was  like something out of this world. I felt like I went through a time portal. All that magical beauty and power of Nature was left behind...
After a little more riding and a few decent climbs I finally saw Medora - a little charming town, where you don't need a GPS to get to the right place.
Loran and Jennifer were in the shop. They're greeted me, stinky and dirty. I was very happy that I found em in the shop, so I could give thanks  for their help in person. After a short story of my adventure, we took a fee pictures and I left this friendly place with a promise to come back again.
Dakota Cyclery presented me with  a T-shirt and beer glass with their logo. It will remind me for a long time about my first solo bikepacking trip and people who helped me to made my dream true.

[fotooutdoors]

Wow!  That is quite the load on your back.  I have toyed with the idea of riding the Maah Daah Hey, but haven't been able to find much beta on it, so thanks for the write-up.  Sounds like a great 30th birthday present.

[stumpyfsr]

Yeah, such a big backpack didn't work well. Although it looks heavier then in real. I've already replaced some items for more compact ones. And now working on getting seatbag, framebag etc. and only Camelback will be used in the future.
Indeed that was a memorable Birthday ride
You can arrange supported trip with Dakota Cyclery as well. Give 'em a call and you'll get all the info you need.

[paxton coyote]

Great trip report & awesome to try such rough country for your first multi-day trip, I hope to make it up there someday, visited Medora as a 10 year old kid & LOVE the country up there. You will be amazed at how much more enjoyable a ride is with a bikepacking kit (bags on bike) I've got a full/custom set from Rob Roberts from Burbank, CA who posts on here as trebor & would highly recommend his work. You will learn over time what you need to take & what to leave behind to make it even more enjoyable.

[stumpyfsr]

Thank You for advise about bags. You're right, that trip was to get an idea what bikepacking is and how to do it best. After some learning curve and training hope to ride Colorado Trail.

[Slim]

Here are some more pics/info:
http://www.bikepacking.net/routes/maah-daah-hey-trail/

http://www.bikepacking.net/individual_setups/first-attempt/

[sub-xero]

Heh, and I thought I was the only crazy person doing bikepacking trips with a full suspension bike and a heavy backpack. But 42 lbs? Man, that's A LOT of weight! Mine has 22 lbs, but I admit that I do not carry cooking equipment with me.

Anyway, thanks for the report and the photos, it looks like an awsome trip! I ride in completely different terrain (European Alps) and I hope that one day I will have the chance to make a long bikepacking tour in the wilderness of the USA.

[stumpyfsr]

Heh, and I thought I was the only crazy person doing bikepacking trips with a full suspension bike and a heavy backpack. But 42 lbs? Man, that's A LOT of weight! Mine has 22 lbs, but I admit that I do not carry cooking equipment with me.

Anyway, thanks for the report and the photos, it looks like an awsome trip! I ride in completely different terrain (European Alps) and I hope that one day I will have the chance to make a long bikepacking tour in the wilderness of the USA.

Nope, sub-xero, you're not the only such crazy I'm sure there're many more around
I know that pack was HUGE. But I have an excuse - that's m first time. Hope my report will help others not to repeat my mistakes. I've could go a few pounds lighter if throw away some things I didn't even use. Had no idea what to expect there and packed a lot for "just in case" situations. Badlands is a true wilderness and nobody around to rely on except yourself.
Anyway, I wanna say that I'd love to ride in Alps. I've read a lot aboun Megavalanche and saw pictures. You are so lucky to enjoy those  breathtaking views.
Have fun riding and share your impressions

[sub-xero]

Nope, sub-xero, you're not the only such crazy I'm sure there're many more around
I know that pack was HUGE. But I have an excuse - that's m first time. Hope my report will help others not to repeat my mistakes. I've could go a few pounds lighter if throw away some things I didn't even use. Had no idea what to expect there and packed a lot for "just in case" situations. Badlands is a true wilderness and nobody around to rely on except yourself.
Anyway, I wanna say that I'd love to ride in Alps. I've read a lot aboun Megavalanche and saw pictures. You are so lucky to enjoy those  breathtaking views.
Have fun riding and share your impressions

I hear you. My equipment has improved a lot over the years. The true wilderness is what I really would like to ride in. Here in Europe you're never too far away from civilization, the Alps have a very dense net of hiking trails and mountain shelters. You're never further than a 4 hour hike away from a shelter or a village.

I am already sharing my impressions on my website (link see below).

[stumpyfsr]

Sub-xero, I like your site a lot. So many usefull info and awesome trip reports. Added to my Bookmarks.

[Slim]

StumpyFSR,
what was your itinerary? Where did you camp each night? (Names of camp sites).

[stumpyfsr]

StumpyFSR,
what was your itinerary? Where did you camp each night? (Names of camp sites).

I've began my trip from Bennett Campground. Due to adverse conditions I didn't made to Magpie Camp and spent night just aside of a trail. On day 2 I had lunch at Magpie and refilled with water. I've made to Elkhorn Camp before night. Third night was at Wannagan Camp. And on day 4 I got to my car around 15:30.
There is also CCC Campground (up north), Buffalo Gap and Sully Creek campgrounds. All these camps provide drinking water.
Here's map http://www.mdhta.com/map/trailmap.jpg
Thanks for asking - I've should mention camp names in my report

[adamonrope1]

hello stumpyfsr,
I just wanted to chim in and let you know that I just completed a 900 mile tour through the arctic and central alaska on my fsr full suspention and it was a great ride! gravel roads and pavement, it was a "run what you brung" but very happy with the whole experience. The only advice that I can offer is load that pony with some of that weight! it can handle it.
thanks for the post,
adamonrope1
 

[Slim]

I've began my trip from Bennett Campground. Due to adverse conditions I didn't made to Magpie Camp and spent night just aside of a trail.
On day 2 I had lunch at Magpie and refilled with water. I made it to Elkhorn Camp before night.
Third night was at Wannagan Camp.
And on day 4 I got to my car (in Medora)around 15:30.
There is also the CCC Campground (at the north end of the trail), Buffalo Gap  (near the freeway at the south end) and Sully Creek campgrounds(Southern terminus). All these camps provide drinking water.
Here's map http://www.mdhta.com/map/trailmap.jpg

Thanks for that info, including the times. I am planning a second trip there this fall and am trying to decide which sections to ride, and when to make it back home.

On my previous trip I left Magpie ~10:00 am and made it to Elkhorn ~3:00pm. I am a slow and relaxed rider.

Note that Bennet Camp is quite a ways from the main MDH trail (~3 mi). There have also been some landslides of sections of trail around Bennet Camp.

For those of you in Chicago, Wisconsin or Minnesota consider Amtrak trains to get out there. You can leave after work in the evening, sleep on the train and get to Williston by 11:30 am. Ride a few days, then board at 7:00pm. Sleep on the train, and be back in MN/WI in the morning in time to work a pretty good day.

[stumpyfsr]

@adamonrope1, that's an impressive - 900 miles through Alaska. Thank You for your advice - will deffinatelly load that pony. I wish I knew about bikepacking gear before my trip.
@slim, train ride sounds interesting and much better then 9 hour drive. How did you get from Williston to Magpie? And then how did you got back on train (I assume back to Williston)? Did you go to Elkhorn and back?

[Slim]

Haven't gone yet, this is for an upcoming trip I hope to do this October.
I am asking Dakota Cyclery for a quote on shuttle from the train station(they list it on their site, but no price). Otherwise, might rent a car in Williston.

[fotooutdoors]

When you get that quote, could you pass it along here?  This route (including the Amtrak ride) are on my "list", so I am trying to get an idea of what it would cost.  Thanks!