Of course nothing registers when the wheel isn't spinning. But I'm somewhat anti-tech (and cheap) so don't feel like going GPS, but do understand its benefits.

Several items for sale on my blog, more details at the following link
http://cleavelandmountaineering.blogspot.com/2016/09/since-2010-i-have-been-pedaling-with.html

Cleaveland Mountaineering frame bag for Fisticuff, weights 4.5 ounces - cuben fiber in high visibility orange ($75)
DT 240s non-disc singlespeed wheelset, laced to 29" Stans 355 rims, very light, very nice, DT never took this prototype hub into production. ($325)
DT 350 with Velocity P35 front wheel, good for high volume 29 or 29+ wheels ($150)
Manitou Tower Pro 29 fork, 80 mm travel, 9 qr dropouts, 1.125 steerer ($100)

Would also consider trades, specifically but casually interested in a 26" or 29" singlespeed capable frame with V brake mounts - Surly 1x1, Troll, or Ogre (or older Karate Monkey) or similar from other brands.

I run Cateye Velo 5 and 7 speedometers, and both suffer the same frustrating flaw.  They don't register below about 2.7 mph. That's fine for most riding, but for bikepacking in the Colorado mountains, when you sometimes have to push, carry, or ride very slowly for hours on end, its a mental drain to be working your tail off and see 0 mph on there and no mileage increase.

I think the issue stems from the time between magnetic impulses into the speedometer, and if the time interval is too great it forgets about the previous impulse.

Speedometers work off a simple principle, speed = circumference / (time between impulses) and distance = sum of circumferences traveled

Now, if we add a second magnet (180 degrees from the first is best) and half the circumference input to the speedometer, the speed and distance readings are the same!

Simple, effective. Initial tests registered speeds as low as 1.2 mph, at which point I couldn't ride much slower without doing a track stand. It also appeared to be registering properly for speeds up to about 18 mph.

Now I need to find some awful hike a bike mission to test it on more thoroughly.

SOLD, sorry not updated.

I recently got a used Krampus with Fox 140 mm fork (very plush!), Rabbit Hole rims, Knard tires, and Hope SS hubs. Drivetrain is 1x7 with 9 speed Shimano equipment (7 of 9 on a singlespeed hub), Avid BB7 brakes, etc.
I'd prefer 2x7 or 2x9 to allow for granny climbing more stuff, but not sure I want to get a new crank and FD to accommodate an infrequent need.

Its a great bike.

For the CT or chunky rocky desert singletracking you will be PUSHING the cross bike a LOT, and getting a lot of pinch flats.

For sale is my "well traveled" commuter bike, a Vassago Fisticuff (the second version they made, got it in 2013) size 54 cm.

This frame is very versatile, can fit up to 1.8" 29er tires or road tires. Can be disc or v, singlespeed or geared, racer bike or geeky commuter bike, monstercross, rough touring, drop bars, flat bars, whatever. It goes almost anywhere and doesn't complain.

The wheels are the component highlight, they are DT240 non disc, laced by Mike Curiak to Stans 355 rims. The rear hub is especially rare, it is a singlespeed cassette body on a non-disc hub. DT made a few prototypes like this and then never took it to production! This is the only place you can get this wheelset. I've been running it with 5 cogs from an 8 speed cassette on it. Works great, and with 3 chainrings up front, is more gear range than I need, even for big Colorado hills.

Frame bag and Jones H Bar bag are made by me, Cleaveland Mountaineering. They are cuben fiber fabric, super light. Check out more on them here - http://cleavelandmountaineering.blogspot.com/2016/03/a-tale-of-two-frame-bags.html
High visibility orange and reflective.

• Phil Wood square taper bottom bracket with new Enduro bearings, cranks are no name square taper 104/64 bcd 3 chainrings
• V brakes, Avid Single Digit with FR5 levers
• WTB seat, almost new
• Jones H Bars
• Sram rear derailleur, old and tired
• Schwalbe Marathon 35 mm tires, only a few hundred miles on them
• Cane Creek S3 headset

Old Man Mountain Sherpa rear rack also available, $50 with bike, or $75 separately.

$800 OBO
Will ship, buyer pays actual
Paypal only
Will consider parting out
Pedals, mirror, speedometer, lights, and bell not included

Try ebay or the facebook group "bikepacker swap" or something like that. It may sell better somewhere with mountains and snow.

Check out the Liberty Ridge pants and jacket pattern over at www.thru-hiker.com
I made a couple pairs of each of these almost a decade ago and they're still working great and getting plenty of use.

I've put over 10,000 miles on a DT rear hub, and 1000s of miles on a couple other DT rear hubs. The bearings I've never had to service...
If you did need to service them you'd probably have to pull the bearings and press in new ones, but that's the same with any sealed bearing hub I would think.
But you could probably ride 20,000 miles on a single set of bearings, and that would take you all the way around the world.

SOLD

Folks - if you want this bag please make an offer as I don't have a need for it!

DT

Ladderlock buckles sometimes loosen up when tightened around a solid curved object. The curve changes the friction angle on the buckle.
Voile straps or webbing straps with metal cam buckles will help (like the straps rafting guys use).

Used Cleaveland Mountaineering frame bag for sale (or the right trade)

Fits a 54 cm Vassago Fisticuff, but should also fit many similar sized cyclocross, touring, and road frames...

I ran this on my commuter bike for maybe 5000 miles, and it still works great.



The bag is made from Dimension Polyant XPAC VX42 in blue and white (actually the white is blue flipped inside out). The zippers are in great shape as they are YKK water resistant #10 zippers.
Features are dual compartment, left map pocket, tapered wider in front, and full padding along the frame tubes. Also it has reflective tape and a high visibility green stripe - side visibility while commuting is important!
New, this bag would go for $155.

$45 including shipping to the 48 states, ask for a shipping quote for other locales.

No idea for conditions this year, I'm living in Grand Junction and don't get up to the high country often.

In early July you will very likely run into extensive snow up high.... so just pay attention to the snow levels before you go.
These pictures were taken on the sections 22-23 probably the end of June, 2011. I was living in Lake City at the time so it was a short overnighter out my back door.
In the first picture I had to use my bike as an ice axe to get across the steep snow field..... 1. Kick steps.  2. Toss bike forward and hold onto bike. 3. Kick next step.
There were several snow slopes like this with long but fairly benign runouts at the bottom.... just don't fall!

Too bad I owe the government about that much...

I cut the width part of fabric from 3.5" - 3.75" wide. This includes the seam allowance. Unless your frame is really huge or you're super picky, don't worry about stopping the bulge. It will happen, and unless it rubs on your legs, just let it happen.

First, check the manual for the machine and make sure you're threading it correctly - top and bottom.
Then, put the machine on zig zag (if it can do that) as its easier to see where the stitch is off balanced.
If the thread loops pull through to the bottom, the bottom is too tight (or the top is too loose).
If the thread loops pull through to the top, the top is too tight (or the bottom is too loose).

It usually takes a bit of fussing around with scrap fabrics to get used to all this.