I dig your ingenuity and frugality!

No handling issues. Use threadlock, and tie-wire the rack to the frame to back up the bolts. Do not overload the panniers -- water goes in the frame pack. Fill one pannier less if pushing the bike is planned. Disregard public opinion, go have fun. 

It depends on the flat pedal. Thinner is better for ride performance and worse for longevity. Some thin flats use a bearing/bushing combination or just bushings; many rely on less burly hardware than a thicker flat.

A pedal with big bearings inside and out is what I think of as a good choice for all but the most technical bikepacking. Something like a DMR Mag V12 -- indestructible, economical, and a good size and shape for average-size feet. I do not hesitate to use a thin pedal in good shape if the route has a lot of technical riding. It does make a difference. If bearing life and longevity are the primary criteria, IME the bigger bearings will easily outlast any super-thin pedal setup.

As far as bearing replacement/service: I've never replaced or even opened up my Mag V12's and they have spun nicely for thousands of miles through all weather, tandem loads, yada. Thin flats with bushings, ridden regularly, can last years before they get rattly. Again, the small parts holding some of them together would seem a little dicey for a trans-state affair but I'd use them on something short without reservation.

I have heard that subpar gear (heavier, etc.) should not be as much a consideration with a loaded bike, bikepacking, etc. IMO it matters more when riding all day for successive days, as every nuance of a bike gets magnified.

If you were me you would start with a clean slate and get the exact spec or best wheels you could afford. Carbon is not exotic anymore, just more expensive and commensurately more durable. Keep the old set at least until you fall in love with the new set or complete whatever big project(s) you have in front of you. I project that you will not want to take a dream wheelset off your bike.

I have not used a Dynamo, but would not hesitate to. Hub reliability is #1 for me, followed by a bomber, light, stiff hoop. Many carbon options exist, though I have had too much good performance and reliability from Derby to try anything else at this point. Same with DT Swiss hubs. I rode a budget (Easton) carbon wheelset on the US Divide, and the rear hub was finished afterward. Bullet dodged, never again.

A good wheelbuilder who knows bikepacking will keep you honest. MikeC of Lace Mine 29 drops in here sometimes - he would be at the top of my list for wheel info/building.

Not versed in product offerings, but AFAIK a mummy bag is designed to roll with the occupant.

I use an old UL down bag and supplement it with clothing (worn), a sleeping bag liner, small ensolite pad and shelter (bivy bag, tarp, tent, natural). Depending on conditions, I forego liner, pad, extra clothing, shelter or a combo of them. So the old minimal sleeping bag works for everything from the warmest to coldest I want to bikepack in; could go colder with a different liner.

Not interested in a quilt because it requires a pad. What is with all the pads? I have not found it difficult to find spontaneous sites good enough for a full night sleep on pad-free rides.

Spring is tough to plan at higher latitudes without (or with) a clue what winter will deliver. The safe bet is planning to get a little warm over pushing your bike through snow and avalanche debris. I would forget OR and NorCal and look at CA/AZ/NM. That latter part of the country below 7-8k ft elevation is ideal then.

Have a look at the Routes page here - it has inspired more than one ride. Get creative and put together something that includes an area you want to see, part of an existing route, etc. If the unknown is not your thing, stick to part of one of the standards; lots of documentation. AZT for more singletrack and hike-a-bike, Great Divide if you like mind numbing dirt roads and higher mileage days.

Congratulations; I am super stoked for you! That bike will serve you well and the frame will probably never wear out. Have fun kitting up and planning. Surly sells Revelate-made frame bags for your exact frame.

I just picked up a used Krampus (and new frame bag) myself, so I can dig the excitement! Cheers.

Exciting times!

It looks like a decent starter, but a XC race-leaning bike will probably not be super comfortable for extended riding. For similar $ you could get a versatile steel hardtail that has attachment points for racks, more bottles, etc, and room for bigger tires. Jones and Surly bikes are not entry-level, but are reasonable (some under $2k) and could spare you an early redirection. Other brands offer models with a similar bent. Marin Pine Mountain, used Salsa El Mariachi. Something like a Surly Karate Monkey would do everything you want. A buddy has had one for a decade and uses it for everything. These are more purpose-built for what you want to do than the bike you're looking at, and they are great for trail riding -- arguably more comfortable for that than a race-y bike.

I'd stick with 29" wheels and pop for a carbon fiber handlebar.

Any bike will work for bikepacking, but the pursuit is more enjoyable with a bike/setup that somewhat mitigates discomfort. Have fun ramping up.

Bobonli hits a good point. A bike that?s not a whole, rideable bike is not as attractive to opportunistic thieves.

Leaving it in high gear or taking the chain off the front rings could buy you a few steps of chase time. With road dropouts you could loosen your rear QR and the bike can?t be pedaled. Thru axles killed that, but a crafty rider should be able to hack something that works similarly.  

I?d get a used steel or alum bike that has bosses or provisions for a rear rack. Surly and Salsa brands have numerous models. You surely don?t want a rope and climbing rack on your back while you ride. Typical bikepacking setups will not have the volume or weight capacity you?re looking for without a rear rack. There?s no need to spend that kind of dough for an approach bike unless one just wants a nicer bike.

The lower attachment point near the rear axle is key. The one up by the saddle is optional because you can use an Axiom seat collar which has a rack mount on it.

There's often an area inside for shopping carts -- I wheel it in there while looking for an employee to ask if it's cool. If not I try to find a spot near checkout where it's well out of the way of customers, but I always will let an employee know/confirm it's okay. It's never been an issue.

The only time I was ever denied taking my bike into any store was Big 5 sporting goods. With no windows in a dodgy neighborhood, I passed on it and rode farther to an REI where they opened the door for me and were thrilled to ogle my bike while I shopped.

That it's the first completion of that category in the CT Race is not the least bit unbelievable. No way to tell for sure if it's ever been done outside the race. It seems likely with a big population near the start and the fukking PITA it is to get from Durango to Denver with a bike once there.

Five Ten Guide Tennie gives me as good riding performance as their bike-specific shoes with dots rubber like the Impact and Contact. It's a better shoe for walking, hiking, scrambling.

This model has changed many times over the years. Some iterations were terrible. The current design seems robust comparatively. I have a slight delamination on the sole on one pair and rand on the other pair after some extended wearing, time for some shoegoo, but otherwise holding strong.

Sounds like a nice and capable setup! High demand all over as far as I can tell.

A grip with a fin like Ergon's could make a difference. I've used their GX1, GX2 and GP2 grips; would not consider anything else for a weeks-long ride with a semi-conventional MTB bar.

It sounds like fun!

Numerous sections of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route would be nice traveling and user friendly. Of course a loop will take a little creativity, but rural roads are numerous. Adventure Cycling Association will be the source of current info, maps, GPX.

Hey, Gabe. I don?t think you can go wrong with those solid choices, and you can set it up to your liking.

I?ve been using a PMW Components Coast dropper post with 40 mm of suspension, and it has enabled me to actually ride a hardtail. (Bad L5 here.) One might question a dropper for a bikepacker; it does make long days easier.

The Thudbuster line by Cane Creek is another suspension post, not a dropper. They work as advertised but don?t pair so well with a seat bag.

Both of these products make a dramatic difference in the forces coming from the bike to the spine. Carbon fiber handlebars dampen vibration more than impact, but they also make a difference. Add appropriate saddle and grips, done.

Bikes: The steel frame might be more forgiving than the aluminum one, but try to ride them before buying. I had a very stiff steel frame that was a challenge. I went to titanium and got a little more comfort. Could be other factors than just the material, which is why I reco trying the bikes.

I won?t be using my device for navigation. Maybe a check in in towns but I?ll be using paper and have an etrex in my bag in case. I could definitely see two cords if using your device as your main navigation. And the weight/bulk to importance ratio makes it a no brainer.

One thing I?ve learned in reading is the importance of the powerbanks input port and the wall charger you are using. Getting quick charge compatible parts speeds up charging to near or over double speed. There are 10,000mah banks that have been tested to charge in 3-4 hours, which is reasonable.

I agree though going with multiple smaller banks would be a great option even for the slight (couple ounces) weight penalty. Now if only they made more banks in the under 10,000mah capacity range with quick charge and pass through charging. A 5000-6700 that charges full in an 1-2 hours would be awesome!

Got ya! That all makes sense to me, and I?m learning about power banks. Thanks for sharing that info.

I use a few different apps to plan/research dirt routes, but for a dirt/paved road route I?d use Google Maps. Free, accessible and you can export the digital route for use in portable devices. In the US, anyway.

Have fun, stay safe.

Glad to share any info that helps!

I forgot to mention: For a long or navigation-intensive outing I bring a backup cord. Even the tiniest one could avert calamity. Of course I do this because one did fail mid-ride (dumb luck, a resupply stop had one in store the next day). Redundundancy, you know. I don?t think any brand is impervious to failure.

I?ve toted two battery packs before. Not so much for charging capacity, but for that redundancy and also because the battery packs take an ungodly long time to charge. Not to mention my pathetic (former) phone?s battery... If I could start from scratch I?d get two smaller packs rather than 10k mAh size. I haven?t looked at portable solar in years, but having one batt pack charging with the panel on your backpack etc and one free for charging devices sounds like it could eliminate wall charging or progress stoppage completely.

You?ve intimidated everyone into silence, ev.