Oh maaaaan. I literally put my deposit down Monday. dAng!

IMO, start in Santos, ride ALL the singletrack (there is way way more than on the Huracan route), then progress counter clockwise down to Croom, ride that singletrack and then head back. Should get you a bunch of awesome riding, plenty of resupply, and also the most singletrack.

Not sure on the issues you have, but I've for sort of "normal" eyes but with a -4.25 script. I wear the "monthlies". Wear them for 30 days straight, including nights, and then toss em. I always carry a backup pair, even for normal trail rides, as I've gotten dirt in my eye before, but otherwise just wear them all the time.

Anyone tried it any earlier? I wanted to go a bit earlier so I might do an ITT starting on the 15th or so. Will the extra week or so make a difference in terms of snow pack? Should be about the same regarding weather.

I don't disagree with it as an emergency for when shit breaks. As I posted above, I'll take one as an emergency, but I won't plug through it as part of the normal workflow, as it provides inefficiency if the USB charger (Sinewave) can actually produce power correctly to charge the batteries of my phone, lights, and GPS.

That way it's ready to charge if the hub breaks, or if you do need emergency power at night/whatever. I think with a 9 hour light battery, 15 hour GPS battery and 2 day phone batter (on airplane most most of the time) I should be allright? I dunno, this is why I will test

Very interested in this also.  I've used an Expilion 800 bar mount for several years and a lot of miles with no complaints but haven't tried charging from a dynamo.  I get about 9 hours on low power, which works well when used with a Fenix helmet mount when needed for tricky terrain (and camp light).  I have an SP-8x on order for a wheel build but haven't decided on a converter/cache system yet.  I wonder if you'll be able to efficiently charge your electronics without a cache battery.

A lot of people told me to do a cache battery. The Endurance group on FB. I think a LOT of the responses were due to the nag screens on older Garmin GPS devices. The Reactor FAQ says otherwise (http://www.sinewavecycles.com/pages/reactor-faq)

"No - and this is a good thing.  Most chargers that include a "cache battery" do so because they are not efficient enough to directly charge a phone - they must slowly charge a battery, then charge the phone from the battery.  This adds further inefficiency to the system, as well as a delay while the internal battery is charged.  The Reactor is able to directly charge your phone, making the cache battery unnecessary."

Makes sense, since my devices (light, iPhone, GPS) all have their own cache batteries really. Not sure why I need another one inline in the system.

Anyone here have direct feedback on using one of the Expilion Cygolite style lights and just charging it off USB as you go? That was my idea for this next year (http://www.amazon.com/Cygolite-Expilion-Light-Helmet-Mount/dp/B00LXTOPNU)

I've got a SON2815 with a carbon rim coming here in a bit. Was going to couple that with a Sinewave Reactor and just charge my USB devices. Skip the cache battery for normal use as I don't need constant power. I'll still carry one in the pack somewhere as an emergency power supply, but it won't be using it inline normally, in order to try to optimize the setup. I plan on charing my Garmin 800 (latest firmware, no nag screen), my iPhone, and the Expilion Cygolite 850 as my light.

I'll probably bring my Fenix flashlight just as an emergency light, or possibly grab a AAA Petzl headlamp or something similar that is super light and tiny. Not intended to be used unless it's an emergency.

I want to race this route in the traditional format. If I can't stay awake I'll sleep. If I can push through the night, then I'll push through the night.

This is how I feel right here. Even though I posted "8 days" as my expected finish, I sure will try to do 6 or whatever. I just feel I know my limits and I'll have to get some sleep.

Now just have to start training

I'm in for 2016 as well! I'm planning on doing the race start whatever day it is, but I'm going Durango to Denver regardless of which direction the actual "race" goes. I'm planning on 8 days and the whole Sat-Sat like you guys talked about above.

Thinking focused training will start at the beginning of April to give me ~12 weeks

Funny enough my XC 100mm is lighter than my hardtail, but I'd swap over the burlier wheels/tires if I do the CTR on the 100mm, so that's probably where the majority is.

I've got PLENTY of time to experiment, play and ride portions of it (and train).

Thanks for the opinions. Seems like the veterans would choose 100mm FS if they had a choice over the HT, which is what I wanted to see. That means I *should* experiment. For other races/events I've done, the HT is just the automatic choice as they aren't long enough (1-3 days) to suffer on the HT and aren't steep/crazy enough terrain to even warrant a dropper (East coast stuff, Huracan 300, TNGA, etc)

In my opinion, do anything in your power to get everything off your back. Absolutely no backpack at all, EVER. Obviously, your hands and feet will like you a little better if you ride a FS, but your back and shoulders will definitely not be happy. I rode the CTR on a soft tail Ti, which for me is the the perfect bike. The soft tail totally saved my butt and the combination of Ti and tubeless adds all the suspension I need. I will never ride anything else.    

Good point on that. With the FS, I won't have room for 100oz of water, tools, tubes, etc in my triangle, so I'll have to carry water/etc on my back. I'm sure I could throw in a bottle and other tools/crap in the small frame bag that fits with the shock, but it's not enough.

I've got a hardtail Ti, but with big 2.4 29er tires and ~22-24psi, so it's not SUPER rough.

I'm wondering if the hardtail, but with a dropper post, would be good too. I've got a sweet 150mm dropper that will fit my Kon Raijin, and with the seat bag attached, I can get ~75mm drop. I'd add one of these to make sure I'm not hitting the bag and prevent the bag from sliding down too: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/rockshox-reverb-enduro-height-collar/rp-prod108858

I'd be a lot more confident on the downhills which I think would help more so than the full suspension. If I go with the FS, there isn't room for a dropper. This will be fun to test both scenarios and see what I like more.

I do see your point with a bit more weight off the bike and onto the back because of all the HAB. I'd probably opt to take weight off the front of the bike. Having too much weight up there really prevents me from ripping some singletrack like I can with a more "rear biased" setup.

I know the race is essentially a year away, but I am sitting here, noodling in my head, and trying to think about starting planning.

For people that have done the race, would you consider a full suspension pretty much necessary? I've got a choice of a hardtail Ti or a 100mm full suspension plastic bike. With the FS, I'd have to do a backpack for sure, but with the hardtail, I can get away without one. I thought about possibly doing a dropper post as well. I've got a Visacha bag which has fairly small attachment to the seat post.

Thoughts?

Put me in the camp that more people should charge for stuff. I'd rather get a book that someone edited for $3 than read a bunch of unorganized posts for free.

I'd rather have a GPS track that cost me $5 that is curated and correct than something that someone put together in 5 minutes for free.

If people share stuff for free great, but there are MANY MANY MANY times I'd rather pay a few bucks for more quality than the free equivalent.

Another great example is free online poker vs the $1 games. The free games are poker, sure, but the $1 games get you a much better, more fun experience, as people actually have SOME skin in the game, so they play "for real".

Hope so! Soft ground with all the rain but they have perfect weather. Kick ass guys!!

Sorry if this has been asked before but with ~100 starters are resources an issue for the first week or so? Would suck rolling into a small town and the gas station being out of peanut M&Ms!

Or does that work itself out because of the pace?

Good luck to all of you guys! Looking forward to following along on the intertubes.

-Tom

I'm not doing TD until next year, so the longest my setup has been tested without re-charging is 2 days, but this has worked perfect.

- GPS - Garmin 800
- Light - Cygolite Expilion 600 - http://www.cygolite.com/products/expilion600.html
- Backup Power - Goal Zero Power Pack - http://www.goalzero.com/shop/p/133/Guide-10-Plus-Battery-Pack/2:8/
- Extra set of AA Sony Eneloop batteries

The Garmin lasts for ~8-10 hours on a full charge in map mode
The Light goes 3 hours on Medium, 8 hours on Low.

One set of AA batteries in the Power Pack will charge the Garmin and Light from 0% to 100% in about 15 minutes, so with two sets of batteries you are getting 24-28 hours of Garmin and 9-24 hours of lights.

For the TD, I'll be adding a USB Plug 2 and a powered front hub. Since the Garmin and Light both use USB charging, you just need two cables (which can't be helped, I can't find a light with Mini USB, and my 800 has Mini USB, if the 810 has Micro USB, that would be good enough reason to switch). I plan on keeping the battery pack as a full on backup and just alternating between the Garmin and the light in the USB Plug 2 until they are both charged up.

-Tom

Lezyne Multi Tool. Has allens, screwdriver, torx, chain tool, spoke tool: http://www.performancebike.com/bikes/Product_10052_10551_1080108_-1_400153__400153

And a Leatherman Skeletool for the pliers and knife: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-831078-Freestyle-Multi-tool/dp/B001T82R4Y/ref=sr_1_19?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1367799497&sr=1-19

The previous breakage rule was truly unfortunate for some.  I think the new rule is both sensible and fair without further defining what constitutes an unrideable mechanical.  I agree with others who interpret unrideable as a subjective call, based on the rider's experience, ability to self-repair, and ability to tolerate pain/discomfort.  In the end, it's a decision the individual must make at the time based on her/his racing abilities, philosophy and strategy.  If the rider suffers a mechanical, a decision to either proceed or repair will ensue.  If she/he decides it is unrideable, the rider is going to be taking on a time penalty from that point in time and space until the bike is restored to rideable condition and the ride is resumed at the breakdown point.  That agonizing choice to stop/repair or continue with the breakage is available to all, so it seems pretty fair to me.

This right here.

If "said rider" is being a wuss and decides that his dirty bike is unridable and wants to catch a ride to the nearest town ahead to wash his bike, and then catch a ride back with a clean bike, he still has taken a LARGE time penalty to wash his bike.

The rider gets to make the call. What is "faster"? Try to limp/ride/walk along to the next town and NOT have to go back, or catch a cab there and back to the point where you broke down.

Love the new rule, as it just redefines what the "real intentions" of the rule are and you still are riding the "entire course under your own power". Seems legit

From doing some online research, it seems the SON is the "best one out there" when compared to the Shimanos and a couple others.

I haven't seen much on the Supernova though. Their website says it produces more power, but not much on the drag. It's also 200 grams lighter than the SON. Lastly, it's the same people that make the Plug2. I want one of those too 

http://supernova-lights.com/en/products/infinity_s_2.html

Too good to be true? Works great? Thoughts? Experiences?