Forgive me for bringing back an old thread but this same question is rolling through my head.

I noticed that custom builder English Cycles spec-ed a Tour Divide racer with an Alfine 8 - http://www.englishcycles.com/custombikes/black-rainbow-divide-ride/.  With the feedback I'm seeing about the Shimano offerings, I find this surprising.  Is it still the general consensus that the Alfines should be reserved for commuters and any loaded, 29er mountain touring should be left to derailleurs or a Rohloff?

Thanks! 

I use BB7s on 2 of my trail bikes and had BB5s on a commuter until I sold it.  The ability to do easy, trail-side repairs on the mechanical brakes is what sells me.

I commuted on a Soma Juice (Tange Prestige tubing) for about 500 miles until it developed what looked like hairline cracks at the tips of the gusset at the DT/HT junction......
I sanded off the paint in that area and there isn't a visible crack - yet.

want it cheap?

I'm assuming yours is a pre-2013 with curved top tube?  I'm looking at the 2013 model with the straight top tube in size XL/19.5 to maximize frame bag space:

Anyone running a Soma Juice frame for bikepacking?  I would be interested in hearing impressions on their dropout design.

I'm looking for a versatile frame that can easily run gears or SS.  I'm considering the Salsa El Mariachi, an On-One Inbred 29er slot dropout, and the Soma Juice.  The Soma has a few nicer features than the Inbred and a better price point than the Salsa.

Thanks!

PM sent.

Any pics of your setup?

I'm not terribly familiar with sewing machines compared to what everyone else is using but have a Singer 237.  I know it is a 60s vintage with all metal gears and I brought it back up to good working condition.  Is this heavy duty enough to use on the types of materials used for custom bags?  I'll probably get a seat and frame bag from someone but may dabble in some other DIY projects.

Thanks!

I don't know what kind of bike you ended up with but if it was a hardtail, a Cane Creek Thudbuster seat post can take the edge off bigger bumps during long periods in the saddle.  They are pricey ($150ish new) but you could probably snag one off Ebay for much less.  There is a possibility of transferring it to a new bike in the future as well.

http://www.canecreek.com/products/seatposts

Do you run platform pedals? If so, forget the MTB specific shoes. I just use some aggressive trail running shoes with relatively stiff sole, some rubber protection on the sides, and a reasonably flat tread. I tried those PI X-Alps and despised them for both hiking, and biking. The most important thing (IMHO) is to get a half size larger than you normally wear. My feet swelled up a lot within the first two days last year (when I sadly had to bail due to mechanical issues) and my big toe was numb for months afterwards.

No, I mentioned above that I use Crank Brother EggBeaters.  After years of using platform, I can't imagine going back to them again.

slhappy - Do you feel the Candy is a good combination with those shoes?  I've read that the more comfy the shoe is for walking, the worse it is for biking due to lack of stiffness.  I was wondering if the Candy platform helps that.

Thanks!

Editing this because I did not really answer your question the first time.

I like them, so I can't speak to that. I'm sure someone didn't and it would be interesting to hear why.

Primary differences between jones h-bar and standard w/aero would be:

standard would most likely not be as comfortable when on regular grip area due to being straight and not angled.

standard w/aero would have two hand positions. h-bar has 4 ish.

jones has two aero-ish options each with a limitation. grasping front bar is not that layed out. forearms across both bars is layed out but not secure because you are not gripping anything. set up in your link would address that.

standard bar will work easily with most shift systems. jones works best with systems like paul thumbies, or an integrated shift/brake. trigger shifters can interfere a bit with some of your potential hand positions. but you wouldn't have those options on a standard bar anyway. I have triggers on my jones bar, but my wife's set up with thumbies is cleaner. also the thumbies are up out of the way of your handlebar pack.

Hope that helps.

You bring up an interesting point about shifters.  If you were starting from scratch with an H-Bar and building a 3x9 system, what would you go with?  I'm reading pros and cons of thumbies vs. "standard" trigger systems on these bars.  Also, if I try to run a single clamp shifter/brake combo it looks like I'm limited to used or NOS XT/XTR parts (to be v-brake/mech disc compatible). 

Thanks!

Is there anyone that has not liked a Jones Loop H-Bar?  How do you feel an H-Bar would compare to a regular bar with bar-ends and aerobars attached (or is that not a fair comparison)?

It seems that most people love them and you never see them for sale.  I like the idea of multiple hand positions plus extra real estate to mount and lash items for touring/bikepacking.  However, the cost of an aluminum Loop H-Bar is about the same as a decent set of aerobars (that could be swapped across different bikes) so I'm interested to know if there is a better approach or are they just different approaches.

This setup is what peaked my interest - an extremely sharp bike and setup:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/nahbs-2013-stunning-steel-creations-from-english-cycles/253907

http://www.englishcycles.com/custombikes/black-rainbow-divide-ride/   

During a random search, I came across this site:

http://www.englishcycles.com/custombikes/black-rainbow-divide-ride/

A better shot:

http://www.cyclingnews.com/features/photos/nahbs-2013-stunning-steel-creations-from-english-cycles/253906

I'm not sure what you have in mind but I thought this setup was very nice.

I've been doing a bit of research on footwear needs around bikepacking.  For the Colorado Trail, it sounds like one should plan for a lot of "hike-a-bike".  So what are people currently using?  

I have a pair of Specialized mtn race shoes that work great most of the time.  However, a recent trip to Moab proved they are down right dangerous when hiking on rock; almost no traction!  For any future trips, I want something better suited to stepping off and walking/hiking yet able to clip in to my Eggbeaters.

Any experience with these shoes?:

Mavic Scree - http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Mavic/Mavic-Scree-Mountain-Bike-Shoe-2013.axd
Pearl Izumi X-Alp Enduro - http://www.pricepoint.com/Brand/Pearl-Izumi/Pearl-Izumi-X-Alp-Enduro-III-Shoe.axd

Or is the best option to use platform pedals or Powergrips with a standard hiking shoe?

Thanks!  

I'm new here looking to learn what I can about bikepacking.  A friend has suggested a trip in 2014 on the Colorado Trail.  I'll probably use my primary rig (Ventana El Rey) but I'm curious about a more specific frame.

I found a couple threads mentioning On-One Inbred frames but nothing within the past year.  I have an On-One Inbred 26er SS-only frame that I'm considering selling and upgrading to a 29er Inbred that can run SS or geared.  I would think this is a pretty versatile frame.  I have enjoyed the On-One I have but for a bikepacking roll I would want 29" wheels and the Inbred comes in at a very nice price point; less than half of a Salsa or Surly.  I would probably use a Salsa Enabler fork and build the wheels on a geared and singlespeed hubs so I can switch it up for fun or due to a mechanical failure.

Has anyone else enlisted an Inbred for bikepacking duties beyond the couple I've found?  I have found a couple blogs of guys using Inbreds with both flat and drop-bars that look pretty sharp and seem to work well.  I just want to gather some more info.

Thanks!