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221
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Forums / Winter bikepacking / Re: Winter Shoes
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on: January 04, 2009, 05:55:07 AM
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The walking is probably one of the best tips. That's how cyclo cross got started, as a way to keep roadies warm on winter training rides. I once rode my commuter bike to an ice climb wearing my super insulated climbing boots and thick wool socks, my feet were fine on the climb yet froze on the ride, something in the pedaling dynamic just cuts my circulation.
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222
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Forums / Winter bikepacking / Re: Winter Shoes
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on: January 04, 2009, 05:51:21 AM
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Thanks for the replies. I ordered the Pearl Izumi Barrier GTX as well as their Amfib gloves. I also ordered the X-Alp Enduro's too.
Will give a test report on all of them as soon as I get them and try them out.
I wear a 45.5 and PI recommended a 46 and a pair of wool socks would be all I needed to stay warm down well below freezing.
That might be small. I wear a tight 44.5 Specialized summer shoe and the PI 45.5 I ordered were the same length and narrower in the toe box. I also want a winter boot to be roomier to allow for a thicker sock and toe warmers. The Lakes run smaller than their sizing chart too. Specialized makes a winter boot now, but it is only very lightly insulated.
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224
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: Getting my first gear, please critique my picks :)
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on: January 02, 2009, 01:22:33 PM
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I'm not sure what the day and night temps are like for the trips you are planning, so that would affect the amount of insulation. One thing I would allways stress is to bring some of your insulation as clothes, rather than as a bag. A warm jacket and perhaps pants area big benefit in the evening and morning, or even during rest stops during the day in cold weather. Then wear the insulated clothing to bed at night to save weight on your sleeping bag. This also lets you use the same bag for a wide range of temps, because you are only making up the difference between sitting and sleeping.
I don't know what bivy you were referring to but be aware that Equinox makes a microfiber bivy that is not coated. I love it for keeping light dew or frost of my bag when it's dry or under a tarp, just don't assume it will provide any protection against liquid water.
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225
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: Fork suspension question
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on: December 12, 2008, 08:43:15 PM
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As said before, how much of a liability is a air fork these days? Still here are the coil options that I know of: - White Brothers
- Cannondale Lefty Max converted, obviously requires a Cannondale frame or a conversion of the crowns
- Reba with the coil internals from a Pike, that gives you travel adjust as well
- Tora, at least the OEM is coil, I'm not sure about the ones for sale.
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227
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: What bike do you ride? How is it built?
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on: December 08, 2008, 01:16:48 PM
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Scott, I've considered running just the 22-32. What bothers me is that there's so much overlap in gears, it seems a waste to have only that small of a change, when you can have a bigger jump with the same derailleur.
I had a 24-26 on my 26 wheeled bike, which is close to 22-34 on 29er. But on my 29er I am going to lose the 3 smallest cogs, becuae of the 6 rear cogs, that gave me the harder gears with a small ring, so going to a 32t front and 6 speed rear would reduce my top-end gear significantly.(Lighter than the 36x5th cog on my 26 inch)
You are right about the XCG sticking out below the 44t, so more chance of hitting stuff, I hadn't thought of that, also a regular bash guard provides more coverage for carrying the bike, if you're so inclined.
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228
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: What bike do you ride? How is it built?
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on: December 04, 2008, 12:18:22 PM
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I was thinking of doing the same set-up as you: 22-34-bash,because I had 24-36-bash on my 26" bike. But now there is a new bashguard from MRP: , the XCG, that works with a triple. That way I can also use a XT crankset, otherwise the only 34t middle ring that Shimano makes is a XTR, a bit spendy for me.
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229
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: lighting
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on: December 04, 2008, 12:12:13 PM
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This does not follow FD's requirements, but I thought the new Minewt Mini USB opened up some interesting options. Since it charges directly from a USB connector, you could use a solar panel and no separate battery cradle: +
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230
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: What bike do you ride? How is it built?
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on: December 03, 2008, 12:57:10 PM
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I can't speak for Dave-C. But on my new 29er I am using a singlespeed cassette rear hub. This is a dishless hub, creating a stronger wheel at the same weight. The Hope singlespeed cassette body is large enough for 6 cogs at 9 speed spacing. So I lose the 3 hardest cogs, and gain a stronger wheel. A good trade off for me, since I am slow and like rough trails.
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231
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: What bike do you ride? How is it built?
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on: December 02, 2008, 12:07:35 PM
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ob, nice bike! Maybe you want to put this under personal set-up though? I think you will like it. If you want a all in one 'play bike' technical riding bike and camping bike it's a great choice. I used a Prophet for my last multiday trip. similar in the following respects: - Thru axle fork: for steering precision, nice when loaded down with the extra weight and more likely to slam into stuff.
- Slack angles: stable steering for when you're heading down a unknown trail at high speed with a backpack on.
- Firm pedaling platform : To save energy climbing
- Firm pedaling platform : To save energy climbing
- Long travel: Less agile with the bagage means slamming into more stuff. Far from home means you want to keep yourself and your bike in one piece.
- Lightweight: you're adding enough weight already, no need for more.
- Unlike the Prophet you get a drop-down on the fork, sweet! I got a Stumpy FSR 29er now. I get shorter travel but bigger wheels, so the 'roll-over' capability at speed is about the same, but I have better pedaling efficiency. Most important though, 29ers roll better in sand and at low speed over logs and rocks etc. Since many bikepacking trails are less 'manicured' this is an advantage. See also the wheel size forum.
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233
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: Best weight weenie scale for bikepacking?
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on: November 22, 2008, 08:53:09 PM
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If you are looking at kitchen scales, take a close look at the max. weight. I wanted something that could weigh heavy items like winter bags and such or a package of multiple items(eg food in a stuffsack). I had a hard time finding one that went up more than 3 kilos. I finally found an expensive Salter that goes to 5kg.
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235
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Forums / Bikepacking / Re: Introduction Thread
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on: November 10, 2008, 04:07:09 PM
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Hi , My name is Tjaard, which is my user name on MTBR. I live in Minnesota. I am very happy to find this site and very gratefull to Scott for setting it up. I have tried to have bikepacking discussions on other forums (backpacking light, MTBR) but it doesn't seem to gel. I am from Holland and when I lived there I have certainly packed some stuff on my bike (like a kayak), but not for fun I started backpacking about 14 years ago, and got my own MTB about 4 years ago. I was hooked on the MTB immediately. At the same time I was getting more and more into the lightweight backpacking concept. It ocured to me that that would allow for MTB packing on actual singletrack. Together with a friend we put this to the test, on the Maah Daah Hey. I was hooked! One of my favorite things about MTBing has always been the downhilling and the thing I hate most about backpacking was the descending! Unfortunately there has not been another option for a trip due to a wide range of interests and a lack of time and partner.
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Forums / Bikepacking / Re: Denali Nat. Park - Stampede Trail
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on: November 06, 2008, 12:11:22 PM
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That is some serious motivation to have you're bike with you! How did you find biking the gravel bars? I live in Minnesota and many of the creeks here are very low for most of the year, and have fun sections of rock linked by gravel/sand bars, I've eyed them up in the past.
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: Wheel size?
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on: November 04, 2008, 10:24:50 PM
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Hey folks, a quick introduction. I'm a daily bike commuter and regular road tourer from North Georgia who's interested into getting into backcountry bikepacking. Nothing special so far, I've been bike touring and backpacking for years and years and seems like it's time to combine the two.
I'm curious what wheel size folks are dedicated to? I've got a regular 26" (559mm) mtn bike at the moment but the 29er (622mm) seems popular amongst off-road tourists and there's 650b (589mm) on the horizon to split the difference. Do y'all have a preferred wheel size? Based on wheel performance, tire availability, bike geometry, or just that one magic size?
So if we understand your Q correctly you are asking about our favorite bike right? Because for sure, ride what you have if you don't want a new bike. For me it was an easy choice to make my new bike a 29er. Here some points, not in order. 1 fit: not an issue for me, toe overlap, I ride an XL frame and have size 11, handlebar height, I have super long legs, so I'm usually raising my bars, not lowering them. 2 rolling through grass, sand and mud, the bigger the better. On bikepacking trips you are more likely not to be on 'groomed' MTB specific trail. 3 I like stable steering when bombing down a rough trail fully loaded. Most 29ers have a lot of trail. 4 When grunting along at my snails pace up-hill, suspension does nothing to help you get over a rock/root. Bigger wheels do, the bigger the better. 5 When going downhill you can't hop and skip over and around stuff so easy as when you'r on a 'naked' ride, so either more travel or bigger wheels. 6 More suspension travel is harder on uphills with a heavy load. 7 Availability: I ride in the US. suspension forks, fullsuspension frames, and tubeless rims/tires are widely available and tires are available at any bikeshop. If you ride all over the world get 26". If you only ride near your house then 650b is an option. 8 When touring I ride slower than on my 1hr home loop. Slower means wind resistance is less of a factor and rolling resistance is more important. A bigger wheel has less rolling resistance. My new bikepacking(and only) MTB: a full suspension 29er with puncture resistant tires on tubeless rims, a ss rear hub with 6 cogs, thru-axle front and hopefully travel adjust in the front too. Oh and a Gravity Dropper seatpost or similar remote post. With a backpack your center of gravity is up too high, a lot more controlled to be able to drop the saddle, yet have it at full height to save knees and energy on climbs. And most important, a saddle with a groove in the middle, the extra weight on the back really presses that issue home.
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Forums / Question and Answer / Re: Wheel size?
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on: November 04, 2008, 09:59:40 PM
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wheel strength: winner = 26" loser = 29"
The reason that 29er wheels are less strong than 26" wheels is twofold: 1 the rim is bigger, so with the same number of spokes you will have bigger gaps between spokes. Solution: use more spokes, with lightweight spokes this doesn't have to be a huge weight penalty. 2 the radius of the wheel is greater so the cross section of the wheel is a narrower triangle, especially the rear drive side spokes angle almost straight up/down. The solution for this is to widen the hub flanges, which can be done in two ways: 1 use a 150mm rear hub(needs a specific, rare frame) or 2 use a single speed hub. Since there are less cogs there is more room for the hub flanges to spread apart. This is what I'm doing on my new 29er build. A Hope pro II singlespeed hub, with 6 cogs. I get a much stronger(dishless) rear wheel and lose the 3 hardest gears, good trade-off for me, I never pedal that fast anyway. YMMV
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