Maximum PSI of 35.  Yup... hitting your target audience with this one.  I saw that one.  60 dollars isn't horrible...  Or is it.

Some research seems to show its those two options.  I already have a Topeak for the road.  Free/already owned is good.  I might try to attach it to the fork since I'm not sticking that in my camel back.
Thanks all

big fat comfy seats are very hard to get behind.  When riding technical situations or even on the road going into an aero tuck requires you thighs to get behind the seat.  I have one that is wide but not huge and it is relegated to my commuter because I simply could not move around the bike on it.
Also, bigger does not necessarily mean more comfortable.  Too much seat can make it harder to pedal fast and that can get very uncomfortable over many many miles.  High mileage riders tend to like a firmer saddle.
With that said, if you are not going off road and like your seat, then keep it.  Its your butt.
Pedals... once you go to cycling shoes and clipless pedals, there is no going back.  And no, you are not attached to the pedal until death do you part.  Once again, ride what makes you happy.

I just got a fat bike!!  Maybe a silly question but what kind of pump do people bring on the trail with them.  I can't imagine a mini pump being fun at all, especially if its winter.
thanks,

Also consider the "style" of packing.  This site specifically caters to a lighter weight, with limited use or no use of panniers and more towards mountain bikes.  If you are going to use racks and panniers, there may be other sites that may be more useful.

I have toured on a traditional rig (a surly LHT) with four small panniers and this summer am switching to a less traditional set up.  My reason is that I am switching to a lighter weight bike and lighter weight gear list.  With panniers, I have taken the LHT down dirt roads and even a jeep trail or two.  Panniers have been around so long for a reason.  They work really well.  The disadvantage as said earlier is the weight.  It really comes down to how you want to pack and how you are packing.  Think about what you are packing and let that make the decision.  Also, if you use two large panniers you probably don't need anything up front.

"I sure can't get the results everyone else seems to get. After over 10 minutes, I still haven't gotten a rolling boil with 18 ounces of water. It is very hot, granted, but still how in the heck does everyone boil 2 cups of water in 6 and one half minutes like they claim?"
Are you using perfect conditions in a warm kitchen with warm water?  That's probably your problem.  I've made a couple and have ended up with my Trangia.  My personal take on alky stoves (and I used one on most my AT hike) is that its about slowing down and enjoying yourself.  You are in the outdoors to slow down and relax, so relax and let the stove do its thing.  You will probably save much more time by pre-soaking your meal than improving your stove.
A design I have seen but never tried is using three tea light tins at once.
A kinda funny story is that once I got inventive and happened upon a unique design using a crab meat can.  I called it a crab stove and made a how to guide to be published.  I was about to publish it and found the newly created link you listed above to the cat food stove.  It is the same dang thing with a different can.  I was ALMOST internet famous.

How did you attach the handlebar bag?

I find it hard to believe your machine does not have reverse.  I thought all machines had a reverse.  You only need a strait stitch unless you use knit fabrics (clothing).  My machine (an old White from my mother) has more options but I only use a strait stitch.  The X pattern is done by moving the fabric with a strait stitch.  Its not a function of the machine.

What do you use a darning foot on webbing straps for?  I've always had luck with a normal foot.  I can see one being useful for tight corners of a bag, however.

I have put a zipper at the end of a roll top.  What I would do is to sew the zipper two a two inch strip of fabric.  When you are done, you are actually sewing the fabric into your bag and not the zipper.  If you are using the zipper from the start, then sew the zipper strait to the bag, but since you are adding it to a finished bag, then it might be easier to sew a fabric border to the zipper and then sew the border to the bag.
Very nice job.  It takes a lot of guts to try a zipper on the first project.  It doesn't look like you used a zipper foot.  Learn to use a zipper foot and you will end up with super clean and super strong seams (on the zipper).

Nice idea. 
Where did it crack?
You have one photo with lash straps instead of bungee's.  I would think that two lash straps would be better.  If you can sew, maybe make a stuff sack with a daisy chain to lace the webbing through?

Thanks Scott, appreciate the feedback. The shoulder straps are the thing that seem the most challenging to shape up and get right. I'm getting tight for time before the AZT this year and time in front of the machine means less time on the pedals!
One thought was to find a discounted pack to hack up (Osprey or something). Keep the back panel, shoulder straps, hip belt and then just make the actual compartments to attach to the back panel.

If you decide to cannibalize a pack, just keep in mind the final sewing is going to be inside out, so make sure your backpanel is as flimsy as possible.  When is your leaving date?  I recently took apart of couple of unused packs and might have some extra shoulder straps lying around to sell you (for about the cost of shipping).  Or I could sew a set up.  Don't forget about thrift stores for materials.
Good luck
You live in BC?  I'll trade for beer too.

I've seen the stuff you are sewing. Just make one.  Backpacks aren't that hard.  Its the shoulder straps that are the difficult part.  I personally make thin straps with breathable nylon and fleece.  I attach a triglide buckle to the shoulder end and attach a piece of webbing to the pack.  It makes sewing easier.  Take your time, its a fun challenge.  You can make them truly unique.
As far as purchased ones, I'm a big fan of Camelback.  I have an old Blowfish that is showing no signs of giving up.
Scott

What are you hoping to put in it?  It seems to be a pretty basic tube with a zipper and velcro attachments.  If you really want it to stick go with three pieces of velcro.  The middle one gets sandwiched between the outer two. 

Has anyone considered a DIY project with spent inner tubes.  Has anyone sewn them into a fabric before?  I have so many inner tubes lying around I would love to try something with them but not at the expense of weight or durability.

That's pretty cool.  How hard do you think its going to be to remove the stabilizer from the seat.  I realize this is going to happen once before your trip and once after it but its a design point worth considering for anyone else to try it.  It looks like the original uses a threaded aluminum piece but the cost of a tap makes that cost prohibitive.
Nice job.

No one is willing to help a poor man out?  My current thoughts are 13*13?

Can anyone give me a basic set of dimensions for a handlebar roll harness please?
Thanks,

I have thought about switching to a rigid fork which should make things easier.

I'm not an expert on the topic (but I AM on the internet), but I predict buying a new fork and a rack for the fork would be more expensive than an Old Man Mountain rack.  Ohh... There is a Blackburn rack that is only 45 dollars.  70 dollars gets you a gigantic basket too (I must be bored...).  https://www.blackburndesign.com/racks/front-racks.html