Dave, thanks so much for hosting a fun event! You have created a course that is beautiful, adventurous, and brutal.
This was my (and Ian's) first attempt at a bikepacking race, though we both have been cycling for a long time.
The climb out of the canyon went quickly and was conversational in pace. We hit snow almost immediately on the Sydney peaks trail, and had 10-15 minutes of hiking and route finding. From the summit at 11k, things began to string out on the descent, and before long it was just the two of us. Riding through the open meadows of that plateau were some of the best miles of the trip.
The descent into Navajo Lake was ridiculously fun and wild, but with lots of downed trees. After a relaxed water refill at the campground, we were off on the VRRT. I was optimistic when I saw fresh log cut on the first mile of trail, but I don't think it lasted longer than that first mile. Before long we were jumping endless downfall, but somehow managed to keep our pace consistent. At times it felt like a cyclocross event with waist high barriers. Many sections of the VRRT were rougher than I had anticipated, and I was regretting having a hardtail.
Eventually we made it to Todd's store, and choked down some $1.99 gas station burritos before heading up the road towards the Pole Canyon climb. The upper section of Pole canyon is rough hike a bike, but feels so wild and remote that it kept motivation high. Our plan was to sleep early and at higher elevation to avoid the cold valley inversions. After a refill at Water Canyon spring we started the climb up towards Crawford Pass, and decided to bivvy when we found a nice spot around 10:30pm. It stayed remarkably warm up high where we camped, and continued to be warm when we started riding again at 4am. Not until we dropped down into the Tropic Reservoir valley did the temperature precipitously drop, and we quickly had to put on every bit of clothing we had. There was frost on the grass as the sun rose, and my hands became as painfully numb as then have been in a long time. We skipped the Tropic spring water source because the upcoming campsite was more on-route, but it turns out the campsite doesn't have reliable running water. Luckily some campers saw our situation and helped us out with a small refill.
The miles up to Thunder Mountain are fast dirt road, and I was only slowed down by some worsening chamois issues. Extra chamois cream was essential. Thunder mountain was fun riding, and I would like to go back there with fresh legs -- we both walked some steep sections that I'm sure are easily ridden. We skipped Harold's restaurant, and instead restocked at the Indian trading post just up the street. They have a reliable selection of gas station type food. On the way to Panguitch lake we knew we were on a reasonable time, and began to push more consistently on the climbs when we could. The "piped spring" listed on the GPS waypoints is a great little oasis with a huge tub of perfect water. This section again had some really rough road that had me wishing for full suspension. After another water refill at the Panguitch Lake store, we started the long climb back up to the plateau. After 180 miles of riding, we agreed it would be more fun to roll in together rather than attack each other to the end. On the upper sections and on Spruce trail (again very wild and endless down trees) I would go ahead on the short climbs and hike a bikes, and Ian would catch me on the descent.
The Dark Hollow descent ended up being the hardest part of the whole ride for me. The number of down trees and steepness of the trail did not go well with my bonking body. At one point we couldn't even see the trail with all the downfall, and just bushwhacked through the woods following GPS. Ian was certainly faster than me on the technical downhills and could have saved some time by going ahead, but we ultimately stuck together and rolled into the campsite with the same time. I think we both pushed each other in different areas of the ride, and neither of us would have been as fast alone.
A few things I learned: 1) If I do this ride again I would prefer dual suspension.. I'm convinced it would be faster and less fatiguing on this course. But definitely don't skip this event if you only have a hard tail like me! 2) I didn't need my water filter or tablets because the reliable water sources are well spaced. That said, the peace of mind of having them for backup may be worth it. 3) Chipotle burritos in seabags will explode and get rice and beans on everything else you own. 4) I'm convinced in good conditions someone could do this ride around 30hrs. We slept (or at least tossed and turned) a leisurely 5 hours. I'm sure people can push this and potentially ride straight through. Since it seemed that didn't work out last year based on the reports, we just decided to be conservative and schedule the sleep for our first time out.
Give me a week of recovery and I'll start thinking about doing more races like this in the future!
Adam