I always have a backpack, although I rarely carry water in it (if so, just a bottle and not a big bladder) and nothing too heavy. I like it for keeping things on my person that I want when I'm away from my bike (resupplying/relaxing in towns, taking side hikes, day rides when I leave most gear at camp, etc.)  Also makes a handy pillow on cold nights when you're wearing all your clothes! I spent many years working as a bike courier, and nowadays carry a daypack for most any ride lasting over an hour or two... so I'm very adapted to it and it never bothers me. 

I love my old Time ATACs (and I mean OLD -- I got a couple of used pairs about 8yrs ago and still ride them, no problems yet.) I've used them for everything from city messenger work on brakeless fixed gears to bikepacking 1400mi this summer (including the CT & Kokopelli's.)

That said, I've heard from too many friends in the past couple years who've broken newer ATACs (since the design change). If I had to replace, I'd scour eBay for old stock circa mid-2000s.

Hi Fred,

Thanks for the route info- very helpful and I had not found those yet.

I live in Winter Park, Colorado and leaving home on my bike on Sun, Aug 21. It will take me a day or two to ride to the start of the Colorado Trail, then I'll be pedaling to Durango, Moab and Grand Junction. If I have time I will try to ride all the way back home from Grand Junction. I have 6 weeks in total. If I don't have time, I will take the train from Grand Junction or Glenwood Springs back to home. I'm hoping to ride an average of 100km per day, with some days off for resting or for bad weather.

It would be great to meet you and ride a part of this journey together. In 2012, I rode for a month on a road bike tour through the Alpes (Paris to Nice) and a week around Corse. I really enjoyed France!

(cross-posted this in the Trip Planning Forum as well)

Looking for GPS data or map/route info for Durango to Moab. I won't be needing/using the San Juan Huts, but would like to follow a similar route. Haven't turned up any good data online yet. Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks,
elliott

Hi Fred,
I'm planning a very similar trip beginning just a few days after you. If I can catch up, maybe we can ride for part of it together.

Do you have maps/GPS/route information for Durango to Moab? I'm having a hard time finding anything useful online, but I know the route is well established.

Merci!
elliott

I'm planning a big loop next month (start/finish in Winter Park, CO) beginning with CT to Durango. Trying to find GPS data for the San Juan route from Durango to Moab. It seems the Hut System operators aren't giving out their maps/data (I understand why) so I'm asking if anyone has or knows of this data being available somewhere? Sounds like they used to offer up more info but I haven't found anything currently online with data or specific route info.

Thanks!
elliott

I'd sorta forgotten about this thread until the recent replies. An update- my frame is done and turned out beautifully. I'll post up some pics one of these days, but I went with rocker drops on the back (comes w/ fender/rack mounts already built into the drops) to allow for single/belt drive. Split frame in the rear triangle for belt option. I went with internal cable routing on the top tube and continuous housing for the rear derailleur. Bottle mounts: I have 3 each on the top & bottom of the downtube, 2 on the seat tube, and 5 along the top side of the top tube. 180mm rotor front, 160mm rear. 44mm head tube. I decided to stick with velcro vs bolts for frame bag; I envision taking the bag off/on frequently based on travel/singletrack desires and don't want to hassle with bolts every time. It's a beautiful bike all around!

The weather has been fitful ever since I built it up a couple weeks ago (snowing again now... argh) but I finally got a few hours to take it on real trails yesterday- the ride characteristics are simply mind blowing! JoeD at Primus Mootry is a veteran and expert frame builder and he of course nailed it again with this bike. We based geometry around my Gary Fisher Superfly 29er with some mods- I've never ridden a mtb that is simultaneously both super stable and super nimble. The frame and parts build were chosen chosen for long term durability and bikepacking functionality over weight, so it's not a super light ride but you don't even notice it when on the bike.

Now I'm just waiting for this 2+ week storm system to pass by so I can really ride this bike!?!

I did a backpacking trip there a few years ago, the Visitor Center gave me a parking pass when I checked in for the campsite(s) and you park right there.

When are you doing your trip? I'm planning to do the ride in the last week of April. Can't wait!

A friend that I met on a 2010 biketour (road) just surprised me with a stack of back issues of AC Magazines in my mailbox. Still trying to find time to read through them all, and am enjoying a lot of the content. I recommend checking it out!

Should I have them tensioned before the trip or am I inviting havoc? I don't have wheel skills or a mechanic I trust.

If you don't have personal experience or, worse, a mechanic you trust, you could be inviting more havoc from messing with them than leaving them alone. I agree with above posts: check for glaring issues like significantly loose spokes, check to make sure the wheels are decently true, and that the hubs spin smoothly w/o play. If there's no glaring problems, leave 'em alone and go ride. If you find a problem, you can find good instructions in books or reputable online sites. Or ask back here with specific questions and we'll point you in the right direction.

Spokes create a complex matrix of tensions working together; oftentimes adjusting one requires attention to several, many, or all of the others.

Finally, where are you located? Somebody here may know of someone nearby or en route to the Cococino who can help you out.

I rode a WTB Weirwolf on the front all last summer/fall (Colorado singletrack ie extremely varied trail conditions, not much mud) and commuting on dirt/snow roads every day this winter. So far I really like it and just ordered another for the rear. I think it strikes a good all around balance and seems to be holding up pretty well. Love the handling on the front, but am curious how it'll do in the climbing traction dept as a rear.

I'm a big fan of down jackets- the rain issue is easily solved by throwing a soft shell rain jacket over the top, and then you have a syn w/ a comfy, lightweight lining. I'll do the same to gain extra warmth too. You do have to be a little careful, as the fabric tears easily and feathers start flying out. (I once instantly destroyed a $200 Patagonia down sweater when I took a spill on concrete.) I use a needle and thread to sew up small holes that inevitably occur.

As for the hood... my winter down coat has a removable hood. 3rd winter and I've never once put it on. On the other hand, my synthetic work coat (I work outside at 11,000ft) has one and I use it a lot when it's blowing/snowing/frigid. I prolly wouldn't want to bike with it, though.

If you live anywhere near an REI, be sure to watch for their "Garage Sale" events where they sell off all the items that have been returned for whatever reason. I've picked up several different bags over the years, all essentially brand new and under a hundred bux. You never know what you'll find, of course, but at the Denver store where I used to go, there always seemed to be a pretty decent selection. If you're willing to remain a bit flexible, it can be a great way to score a bargain.

There's another store in Denver called Wilderness Exchange and they do internet sales as well; they often have demos/seconds/closeouts at good prices. Worth a gander... http://www.wildernessexchangeunlimited.com/

If you sign up for their email list, you'll get a monthly 20% off coupon which can be used online too. (There's one right now that's valid through Monday.)

I tend to be a cold sleeper so I use a warmer bag than some other folks might. I don't have any idea how they come up with temperature ratings, but keep in mind that it doesn't (for me, anyway) mean you'll be toasty warm at the rated temp. I mostly use a 20 degree North Face Cat's Meow and have found it comfy down to around 35 degree nights if I layer up clothes too. If you'll be camping where it's literally 20deg, you may want to consider a warmer bag. I'm sure everyone has different experiences; I prefer to carry a little extra weight and get a good night's sleep.

Very nice.

There's some [un]fairly entertaining comments too. 

Fantastic accomplishments so far and ambitious goals ahead! And nice website.

What was your experience with border crossings (while cycling) in Central/South America?

I've thought through similar repair scenarios as well and we're on the same page. I won't ever back to 26, so that wasn't really a consideration for me. With a flexible schedule and an adventurous spirit, mechanical mishaps become part of the journey rather than a debilitating setback.

Also it's worth noting that 29in = 700c. This wouldn't be an ideal solution but presents some options for ghetto creative short-term fixes.

     3. Mail-order new wheel/parts. Likely very expensive after import taxes and shipping, but companies like Chain Reaction Cycles ship to many countries all over the world. Spend your time waiting on the new parts exploring whatever local you land in. Backpack, work on a WWOOF farm, volunteer, stay with a workaway host. This may not be an option on shorter trips, but when crossing continents, I believe I'd be okay slowing down for a week or two.

I couldn't agree more! Another viable option is to call up your old riding buddies (who probably wish that they had quit their jobs and come with you), dispatch them to your LBS to pick up whatever you need and have them mail it to you. This might be easier/cheaper than dealing with a commercial parts supplier for international shipping, as it can likely be declared a "gift" and avoid a lot of taxes/fees/etc.

Good luck!

Superb photos!

Looks like a great trip and fun place to explore. Bikes, buddies, mountains, hot springs... ah yes, the good life indeed...

Thanks for the input guys. For whatever reason I'd failed to think about headtube diameter but will definitely go with the 44mm. Planning for my trip is the excuse I'm using to build this frame, but in the long term I hope to ride this as my main bike for many more years to come. Hence keeping as many options available as possible!

Addy: good call on the lower bottle cage. I'm thinking it'd be ideal to do 5 equally spaced bottle bosses running up the downtube, allowing for a variety of cage options (although honestly I can't remember the last time I mounted a bottle cage on a mtb.)

Nice to hear how much you love your Walt Works. Walt and I had some mutual friends when I lived in Boulder about 10 years ago; a few of them rode his frames and I agree that he's been building fantastic bikes for many years now. Mine will be from Primus Mootry, another great Colorado builder who I have a personal history with, but I'd certainly recommend Walt to anyone who's considering custom!

I pulled a borrowed BoB for my first ever road tour (10 days and packed way too much crap) and hated the trailer. Lurching/chugging up hills, scary speed wobbles on descents, frame torquing issues when pedaling out of the saddle. And the thing all by itself is awfully heavy! I promptly got panniers for all subsequent road tours.

After that experience I'd never even consider a trailer for any off-road riding... unless it was to tow a pony keg to a campsite party or something. 

The buddy who loaned me his BoB didn't want it back (no use for it) so I still have it. They are incredibly handy for hauling big/heavy stuff around so you don't have to burn petroleum. I'm not dissing BoBs; I think they are a fantastic design, durable and work great for utility purposes. Just not for a long tour.

Where do you see the benefits of sliders when you are running gears ?

I see several good reasons to go with sliders when given the option... I like the ability to easily switch to SS either by choice or by necessity (such as mech failure on the trail.) Also, sliders will give me a bit of flexibility with regards to wheelbase and tire clearance (should I decide to install fenders and/or rack at some point.) The geometry nerd in me loves a nice snug clearance between the tire and seat tube and this will allow me to maintain that tight wheelbase regardless of tire selection.

It's an $80 uprgrade; that's not much in the scope of things and I don't see any reasons NOT to have them, aside from a small weight penalty. I'm open to arguments against sliders tho!