That bag looks really good.  You will be surprised how much you use it on a daily basis, as will your buddy if you hand it off.

On the bottles touching, this is a hard thing to work around sometimes.  There is a surprising amount of variation in the  height from the frame, and the location of the bottle relative to the two holes, between brands and models.  You could look around for something with a higher bottle mount for the DT cage.  Plan B, get a cage with the longer metal tabs and file out the holes into the longest ovals you can to get the bottle higher.  In my experience, the King cages are the best bang for the buck, but sit lowish.  Something like a Profile Stryke is pretty budget worthy and may sit a little higher along the tube.

I cut my zippers about an inch shorter than the full run.  Then pull about a half an inch of coil out of each end (note, I put my sliders on prior to pulling the coil out).  I then bar tack a couple of inches of gross grain or the same material as the bag to the zipper ends, bar tack is at 90 deg to the coil.  The tack acts as the zipper stop and gives me some material to run into the ens seams. 

As for the the corners during assembly, I use a basting stitch to hold the bag together, than come back around a second time with gross grain to bind all of the inside seams.  Everything ends up double stitched and pretty durable.

Off to the bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190623732065?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Thanks for taking a look

Off to eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190627864016?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
Thanks for taking a look

Lots of lookers but no closure?  Not sure why, but if you think my price is too high feel free to make what you feel is a fair offer.  Worst thing that can happen is I say no, and we move on.

Lots of lookers but no closure?  Not sure why, but if you think my price is too high feel free to make what you feel is a fair offer.  Worst thing that can happen is I say no, and we move on.

This wheelset was built up off of a set of White Industries M16 hubs, Laced to 40 hole Velovity Dyad rims with Wheel Smith double butted spokes.  They served me well, but I no longer have a disc braked bike, and they need to move on.  


Untitled by rperks1, on Flickr

You can see more info and pics here:
http://wp.me/P19mfs-yf
or
http://oceanaircycles.com/shop/yard-sale/used-wheels/

Asking $400 Shipped in the Continental USA

OMM Cold Springs by rperks1, on Flickr

These are for a 29er disc brake.  Used and in decent shape. More info and pics here:
http://wp.me/P19mfs-zm
or
http://oceanaircycles.com/shop/yard-sale/racks-and-bags/

Asking $200 shipped in the continental USA

Cutting the price down to $2100 PayPal and shipped or $1800 cash and carry local sale.  Local can be from Paso Robles to OC if you are not in too big of a hury, otherwise near Ventura or SB.

Thanks for taking a look

Back to the top - on the market again

Thanks for taking a look

The first deal did not work out as hoped and the bike is back up for sale.
Just like the title says, I have a medium Niner EMD built out with full Sram XX, Fox fork and Stan's ZTR hoops,


Niner E.M.D. - On the Way Out by rperks1, on Flickr

Asking price is $2500 $2100 (new lower price) shipped in the lower 48, willing to talk about fair offers, particularly if you are in the LA to Santa Barbara area.  Cash and meeting someone new is always more fun than packing and shipping.

Lots more pictures and purchase info here :
http://oceanaircycles.com/2011/09/24/niner-e-m-d-pre-sale/

Thanks for taking a look

http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/sackville-saddlesack-large-olive/20-133

It is bigger, but I like the general layout of the carradice better. I am certain the build quality on the Riv bag will be better though.

I think you may be thinking of spats, as referenced in this GF interview:
http://reviews.mtbr.com/nahbs/2011/03/15/gary-fisher-interview/

or the awkward but functional version here:
http://www.rivbike.com/products/show/musa-splats-pair/60-053

Kind of like gaiters that cover the shoe.

I am talking about regular old keens nothing fancy and not the SPD ones.  The spd models are cut narrow, may or may not be a good thing for you.  I mostly run these on older Sakae Low Fat pedlas, so the teeth on the pedals play well with the lugs on the shoes.  I have run them on the wider flats with the short metal spike and they did great as well.

Have you thought about a pair of keens? either the open oness or the covered leather?  I use both on and off the trail.  The covered oned are primarily for the winter, open for the other 3 months.

Here is a picture of my rig set up for day rides and mixed terrain, e.g. road to fire trails to tame single track to fire trails to paved road home.


Frame bag No.1 by rperks1, on Flickr

I made the frame bag (details here http://wp.me/p19mfs-8X).  The front and rear are from http://www.acornbags.com/.  I am getting gear together for short tours but will use a carradice Nelson saddlebag that has about 1000 ci of space.  I am working on refinments for my own front and rear bags that meet my needs a little better than the acorn or carradice bags do.  My biggest problem is that I am a water hog not adapted to the dryness of the west coast.  The frame bag easily swallows a 2lL platypus bag, I use it to fill the bottles.  Also, I hate having stuff on my back if I can avoid it.

For the guys looking at poles that may serve other purposes, take a look at:

http://www.click-stand.com/

It looks like they come n different gages to suit your needs.

Frame bag No1 is done. 



Thank you to everyone here who has ever posted what and how they did it.  My bag is a bit untraditional for this forum, I went with 16 oz canvas for the sides, and jr. balistics for the parimeter to avoid abraision issues.  I was so excited to finish in time for a group ride today that I forgot to weigh it.  Dimensions are roughly 6x2x21 inches.  I worked flawlessly today for a 2l platypus, Gorilapod tripod, windbreaker and knee warmers with room to spare.  I am already thinking of No. 2 based on what I learned from this one.

My biggest revelation to share, staples!  Better than the pins that were useless and the sail maker's double stick tape.  You can sew over them, and pull them out after the stitching is done.

I have been using the Nelson Longflap for all sorts of things for a couple of years now.  It has been a love hate relationship.

I love having: over 1000 Cu In of space behind my saddle, flexibilty of the long flap top, not needing a traditional rack to carry or support it, the abilty to strap stuff to the outside of the bag.

I hate (or at least dislike): the weak connection of the bagman support, mine wiggles loose no matter what. It is not made to take the abuse of singletrack or dirt roads.  Getting behind the saddle, although I seldom if ever need to do this.  The thin and fiddly leather straps.  finally. How floppy the bag is when empty without the bagman inside it.
 
I have been working on some ideas to replace the bagman without resorting to a traditional rack, this will likely be my solution.  Also, I have been sketching ideas that merge the volume and style of the Nelson with the attachments of the seat bags more commonly seen here, but to get the volume up to 1000 Cu In the bag gets really long and this may not be the direction I go.

Quote
A rear spaced at 135 is almost dishless and builds into a solid wheel.
What hub are you using for that? IME, 7-speed or above means either a fair bit of wheel dish or closely spaced hub flanges, even on 135mm spacing.

Dr. Matt...

I run the Phil touring freewheel hubs, 6spd on my road/cross at 130 OLD and have set up but am not currently running these as 135 old 7 spd.  They are designed with high/low flanges to be built up with rear spokes of equal length (same spoke length as the front too), and only a very slight dish, spoke tension is super close to equal.  the flanges are 52,5 mm appart, same as on the cassette disk hubs they sell, but those do not build up as dishless.  I have not had these wheels out packing, but they do see frequent dirt with my 220lb self and loads of camara gear and water.  So far so good.

I run friction just because I have drop bars and end shifters on all my rigs.