Cool. Had something similar on a Hope SS way black.  Old stacked cog cassettes used to make it pretty easy to build.  Bad knees and hike a bike phobia have me looking for more gear tho.   Like to try a Rohloff some day....

Running a mod’d cassette on a King hub. Would have to check - 30t up front. I think I have 32 as the large in the back. Not strong. Not superhuman. Just stubborn and looking for simplicity. Was gonna run SS by was worried about carrying gear and some longer climbs. Had been riding SS the season before. Other option was to toss the Rohloff back on but I don’t like it for technical terrain.

 

Custom stack on a SS hub?  But a 1:1 or so for bikepacking is pretty intimidating to me.  At least here in the Rockies.  On the other end is the question of spinning out below normal cruising speed- at 30x11 I'd be done at 15 MPH or so, but then I am a lower cadence rider. 

I have buddies who pine for a Rohloff- what holds back on rough stuff?
Thanks

Fan of my 1x5 setup with thumbie... have used 1x9 as well. On the road / gravel I have sram 10 rear, friction double front.

 

1x5?  What is your gearing?  What cassette?  Think you are likely a far stronger rider than I but I ran 1x8 for many years.  Sweet spot still IMHO.

Microshift makes 11 speed thumb shifters.  I have a 9 speed one I like.  I was a long time grip shifter too.

  Interesting- certainly an option.  Cheers.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=60220&category=770

Ah, yes.  Thanks.  I gave up on 9 speed when I could no longer find high quality, lightweight cassettes. 

I tried SRAM triggers a few years back- they were okay.  Can't buy XO Gripshift any longer.  My drivetrain is 2x11.  Never had an issue with accidental shifting either up or down- strive for light hands.  Vermont- what are the thumb shifters of which you speak?  Like bar-cons for drops?  I have straight bars.  Had XT thumbies for many years way back when- not tried Shimano triggers ever- not cheap to experiment either. 

Thanks for thoughts guys.

Hey all,

Recent hand surgery has me looking to optimize cockpit ergonomics.  I've been running Gripshift for MANY years.  The shifty segment of Gripshift has increased both in length and a bit in diameter over the years, both of which I consider undesirable, especially for endurance riding.  With smallish hands tougher to get the brake levers close enough.  Also feel the quality of GX is off the mark at the price point.  For 11 speed that means a jump to pricey XX1 stuff.  On the other hand, I bang my knuckles into triggers sometimes too- not sure exactly how- I'm watching the trail!

So, anyone moved from Gripshift to triggers or vice versa, in recent times?  What was your experience with ergonomics?  What about mounting interference with a Sweetroll type pack?  Thanks!

JD

I did some rough calculations on this question a while back as I was looking to buy a power source.  Seems to me the Goal Zero products don't compute unless you are going on an extended trip (over 30 days without access to mains power) in very exposed terrain.  They are just too dang heavy.  This flexible panel would appear to offer the best power/weight ratio of the ones I looked at (3.1 oz.)  .  But I do not own one.  I do chuckle at the Goal Zero marketing:


How many hours to charge in that arrangement?  I wonder what fraction of these are sold for "Cool" factor alone. 

For my own purposes I decided that spare loose cells (A 2500MAH NIMH AA cell weighs 1 oz) and/or or a power bank makes much more sense.  The larger power bank I bought is this 16,800mah at 8.3 ounces.  This unit can fully charge an iPhone 6 about 8 times, for example.  By comparison the Goal Zero Switch/Nomad is about 12 oz. and 2200mah and takes 5-10 hours to recharge.

Considering power needs, bulk, weight, cost, fragility, hassle factor and variable weather risk, the solar panels just don't pencil, IMHO.

Completely agree.  Called sleeves.  My current 1-person tent has them and it is fussy to get up.  Most good tents these days have clips with external fly, better than sleeves, but maybe not as good as exoskeleton type.

Racingguy:  Thanks for the input.  Your tarp/ground sheet combo is very similar to what my set-up is that way.  I don't camp above treeline as a rule.  My desire to have poles with is both convenience and use in places without trees- desert+.  In well used areas in CO all the fallen wood can be picked clean of usable limbs for firewood (less of late with all the beetle kill).

macr237:  The Big Sky look to be nice products.  It does really bug me that the smaller manufacturers want to piecemeal it out in terms of both cost and weight.  The Rev 1 looks to be $370 complete and 2 lbs 10 oz.  The BA Seedhouse is the same weight and can be found for over $100 less.  I do think the exoskeleton is a superior arrangement in theory, but I haven't used one.  I'm not often forced to set-up in the rain but that could be a big plus for those who are.

Thanks for the pic.  You ever weigh your contrail complete with pole and struts and everything?  Looks like the Moment is 2.6 lbs. with both poles.  The Moment and the Seedhouse look very comparable, just tarptent vs. conventional double wall and side entry vs. end.  I'd guess that the moment would prove more durable but the seedhouse more convenient.  I'd likely be happy with either.

And of course nice fatties.  I'm close to pulling the trigger on the Specialized.

Thanks for the ideas so far guys!  More info: I have 25,000 miles of road self-contained touring background so am pretty familiar with what works there.  The things that are particularly different: This is for bikepacking, which for me is off-road or at least mostly off-road.  And I live in the rockies, so trails are steep and the weather is very unpredictable at high altitude.  Thus both weight and protection are more critical than road touring.

I am looking hard at the tarptents- I know folks who sing their praises.  Which model do you think fits my use best?  Why?

Does seem to me that once you get the kits TRULY comparable (no hiking poles on a bike, rear struts needed with some models, etc.) the weights are nearly equal with the smaller/lighter Big Agnes tents and the tarptents.  A factor to consider is the kind of backcountry tent sites you find on the Colorado trails: squeezing in among brush and few, large trees on non-level ground.  Tarps and tents that require lots of guys/stakes can be a serious PITA, especially when exhausted from riding at 8k+ elevation.  I don't think going without poles is a good idea in an area that can get intense storms any month of the year.  A conventional 2-wall tent also offers the no fly option for hot weather (Utah is a half days drive and has great riding). 

Eureka Spitfire 1:  Can a 6-footer sit upright in that?  It is priced right.

Pyramid tents:  Bug protection?  By pitching flush to the ground all around?  But when the bugs are worst that would seem to make it hot and steamy inside.

I like the groundsheet alternative materials ideas.  Tyvek is so 1995.

The Cave 1 tarp is just over a pound complete (which is without poles or decent stakes).  I have a good scale so I know.  I think maybe I'm trying in vain to use what I have when I really just need to buy new. 

Having trouble picking a tent solution.  Seems like lots of overlap between here and the light backpacking crowd that is more focused on camp gear.  Have an original (yes, OLD) Sierra Designs Flashlight, 3.7 lbs, slow set-up, not freestanding.  Also have a Golite Cave 1 tarp with beaks on either side.  And a REI bivy.  Location is CO, high country, and Utah.  With no bugs I could just make a Tyvek groundsheet, buy a couple of light tent poles and use the tarp (2 lbs. total).  But with bugs and the bivy added, we are now at 3.1 lbs and the Cave needs a good bit of messing around to get it taught.  Tempted to sell it all and buy a Big Agnes Seed House SL1 at 2.5 lbs.

Other ideas?  Some way I might employ what I have more effectively?  Thanks!

Yes, Hope for sure.  And over 36 spokes only needed when you get to super high torque, like the tandem mentioned or a buddy of mine who is NFL-sized.

I don't know if you have ever had the pleasure of riding in southern Arizona, but a tubeless system is mandatory and the longer you can keep it going, the better. Slime tubes have typically had poor performance when pitted against a Stan's tubeless system.

And yes, I do take a tube, but those are a last resort.

Yeah, I had exactly the same initial reaction.  Article might have said that this is a solution for areas with notorious puncture threats.  Did no one really ride MTBs there before tubeless?  Also assumes you haven't lost most of your fluid.  I'd be inclined to carry a Stan's syringe to take up the fluid, patch it with this on the inside:
http://www.harborfreight.com/60-piece-radial-tire-patch-kit-97215.html
and put the fluid back in.  Example: http://www.utahmountainbiking.com/fix/tubeless-fix.htm

I have been running DIY 1x8 for a long time on my 29er.  Can't find good cassettes any longer so 1x9.  But that is for regular riding and not bikepacking.  I live in CO too.  Big difference between regular riding and bikepacking.  I put the granny ring/shifter/derailleur back on for that.  I'm a torque style rider and a run a custom 38t ring and 11-32 cassette and that works for me.  Most folks I'd say a 32 or 34x32 low gear 29er.  I go to 24-32 rings for bikepacking.

I have tried many suss seatposts, including both ST and LT Thudbusters.  Recommend the USE shockpost in aluminum with the Sumo type head.  You can't get enough travel out of any suss post for true rear suspension of rider weight without undesirable consequences for power/efficiency.  All are merely "taking the edge off" to improve endurance and comfort, but quite effective in that mission.  The USE's accomplish that with less weight/bulk and good reliability.  Buy direct from UK mailorder sites for sub $100 USD cost.