Hey Fotooutdoors,
Nice trick on the stapling.  I hear you on the pinning.  if the pins make it then you end up running them into your fingers...  Will have to try the stapling!  Thanks!

Hey there again MULE,
I like what Addy had to say about thinking thru your layouts and patterns. Yes, very true! Take it slow, think it thru and then think it thru again.  I build all my patters out of heavy poster paper and then assemble them with paper clips. This might sound crazy and tedious but I even fold the seams so I can look at how I am going to sew them together in the tough areas. It serves well in a mock-up but takes a little extra time.   The key is, is to think thru the steps and write them down in the order in which you assemble everything.  This will greatly reduce mistakes. 

[Rockywoods]

Hey there MULE,
I used 600 D Vinly coated Polyester, much like Cordura 500 for my first bag.   It said it was DWR (Durable Water Repellant).  I found the material really easy to work with and very forgiving when you made mistakes.  Cordura is basically the same type of material but a little better quality than standard Vinyl Coated Polyester.   I have been building bags for other people using more expensive material now like  Shelter-Rite, Weblon Regatta, X-Pac, Heavy Coated Oxford and a few others.  I was glad I started with the Cordura type materials because there is a big learning curve in sewing these types of bags.  The learning curve was fun but I made lots of mistakes along the way.  These more expensive materials are way less forgiving and you can destroy the seams and integrity of the bags by sewing, and re-sewing the seams a few times over when you make mistakes. Just a word of caution is all. 
I am still using my the first bag I ever built and it still works like new.(600 D Coated Vinyl)  It's two years old and going strong.  Even with a few mistakes. I want to replace it with a more top notch bag made with X-pac but heck..... if it's not broke then why bother.  It works great and is still very Water resistant. 
Take your time sewing and learning the tricks of clean corners, installing zippers, and all the rest of the stuff.  You will get better and better at it the more you practice.
Rockywoods and Quest Outfitters are great companies to work with when it comes to materials.  Great prices and they ship in a very reasonable timely manner.
Have a great time building your rig. If you have any other questions give me an email.
Keep innovating!

My wife and I's bike's ready for our Quartz Mountain, Washington trip.

My Wife and I took a two day ride from Twin Lakes Idaho to Quartz Mountain Lookout, near Mt. Spokane, Washington.  52 mile trip with a great nights sleep in a "Plush" lookout.  On top of the world! Got to love doing this with my wife!  She is a trooper and loves to adventure on bikes. (As long as I bring good coffee!!!)

Totally agree Taffer.   you can spend a lot of time and money figuring the SeatPack out.  Wow!  Taffer's idea of first making a paper template and fitting it together is the way to go.  I build a few models out of heavy poster paper first, fit it all together and then figured out how to sew it all together.  This method saves money and time and keeps you from having a really frustrating day..... or week!  When doing this make sure to cut out the seam width.  Mark and fold the seam on the paper so you can figure out how to sew the seams together.  It feels like you are in 4th grade art class all over again! 

I make mine @ 2" tapering to 1.5 down near the pedals.  The bag can then stretch a little while packing it full and there is plenty of pedal clearance.   The tapering ideas above are great ways to adapt bags to any style of frame.  Great adaptability!

Another thought on Frame wear for you guys with carbon frames.  I built some bags for a friend of mine who has a carbon frame and was really cautious not wanting to cause integrity issues with the frame.  I was concerned with the frame wear caused by most dirt and trail debris getting between the frame and straps and acting like sandpaper.  I used a clear Poly tape on the frame where the straps are.  The tape will not break down from heat or UV and it says it remains stable on the packing info.  The tape peals off the frame without leaving a residue..... at lease so far......  This is just a trial run but so far so good.   This type of application is for those who are keeping their bags on for long periods.   Just ideas for thought here.  I found the tape at ACE HARDWARE.  It's called Ace Poly Tape Clear -  Catalog ID: 40131335  Mfg#: 50-43221
I hope it proves to be a good solution for frame wear.

Really nice job!  Love the innovation here.......  Really clean and looks incredible!

Hello there Hmaddox,
I came up with a design you might be interested in.  My seatpack measures, 7" high on the seatpost, 25" on top (front to back), 28" on the bottom (front to back), and a 9" opening.  It will collapse to around 8".  When it is full it measures approximately: the front @  7" x 6",  the middle @ 8" diameter, the Back end @ 10" diameter.  Total length when full is around 24".  It's a one piece main bag which offers a waterproof environment, so you don't need to use an addition waterproof stuff sack.  It has a protection cover at the front of the bag for the heavy abrasion areas and strapping areas. 
I have found that having you sleeping kit up front works really well as long as you keep it all no more than 5lbs. After 5lbs my bike gets to hard to control on the front end.  This includes you sleeping bag, pad, and one man bivy.  I also found that I can compress the whole sleeping kit by rolling it all up together really tight which allows you to have a stable pack system.  I have found to that the more stable everything is the more consistent control you have.
I hope this answers some of your questions and helps you out. 
You can check out my Bikepacking Picture gallery @  http://lonemountaininnovations.com/bikepackinggallery/
Take a look around my site and you can view a few of my bag products close up.  I'm not trying to sell you anything but enjoy being on this site to share the journey in all this and learning from each other.
Keep innovating!
 

Hey there Flanagaj,
Did you get your sewing machine figured out?   Give it a good oiling, use Coats Uphostery thread with a # 16 needle.  Heavy black thread is tricky in the home sewing machines but can be done.  Let me know if you still need any help.

Hey nice set up!.  Great job at diving in and conquering the sewing.  Keep at it!  It gets easier and easier the more you sew this stuff up.  The more you attempt the more you will figure out those little bugs that keep popping up.  Keep innovating!

Yes, Right on there Jehsohn.  I own the same machine now. Been using it for 6 months and it is an amazing machine.   10 layers of material and no problems.  The thing is a workhorse and plows thru anything you throw at it.  Very versatile maching for the money.  The website is:  www.Sailrite.com.  Hard to find on Craigs list but worth the money to buy a new one.  Within a couple of years you can have it payed off by building your own gear and fixing things around the house.

Yes, I agree with 12wheels.  What he said is right on the money.  I found a singer "touch&sew" Model 758 (late 60's model).  All metal parts and only $50.  Works great.  With the newer innovative materials coming out it does not take as much power to sew them up.  You will still need to take it easy when sewing thru heavily layers areas such as: sewing thru seams that contain flat strapping and heavy stacked junction areas.  You just slow the machine down and hand crack the machine while applying a little power.  Also it makes a huge difference on what threads you use.  I used #69 Coats Upholstery Thread which is really strong for outdoor use. I also used a #16 needle.  Finding the right tension can be a little tricky with black thread. Black thread is predominately finicky for consistent tension when using household machines, you have to babysit it a little.  But all in all you will be able to get the job done for your projects.