Posting on a forum about a first-world problem is just creating another first-world problem, I'd say.

As mentioned, the Southern Tier is dramatically different than the Divide route.  The ST is full-on paved roads the whole way.  If you want more information on it, you're best served by looking at traditional "bike touring" websites like crazyguyonabike.com instead of "bikepacking" sources (which tend to assume minimal or no paved riding, mountain bikes, etc.). 

There are plenty of California or SW USA routes for offroad bikepacking which would be OK in January, if that's your thing.   Good luck.

Nice idea!  The speedometer turning off was always super demoralizing on the CT.

I'm really looking at the new timberjack. Probably will have the salsa carbon fork put on it though. Anyone else thinking about the new timberjack?

 

I agree that the Timberjack looks like a fun bike, but I think putting the Firestarter fork on it would be a really bad idea.  The TJ is specifically meant to be a modern trail hardtail and it's spec'ed with a 130mm suspension fork.  If you put the Firestarter on it, you're losing over 60mm of axle-to-crown height, which would completely ruin the geometry and make it no fun to ride.   

If you want a rigid steel bike, why not something more like the Kona Unit (or many other options)?

My wife had this problem on our Colorado Trail trip this summer.  Here are some ideas, in order of how I'd try them:

1.  Pack the Viscacha differently.  We determined that by packing our sleeping bags or inflatable pads into their little stuff sacks and then packing these side by side in her Viscacha, it made the V's "height" shorter (the V was wider and didn't hang down as low since it was shaped like a sideways oval instead of a circle).  This gave her an extra 1-1.5" of clearance, which made a huge difference.   Always be sure you pack the Viscacha tightly and then strap it really tightly, as this prevents sagging. 

2. Try changing the angle of the V by changing which of the two slots the short strap with the buckles for the seat rails goes through. 

3.  You could also try taking a piece of foam pipe insulation, cutting it to length and cutting it in half down the middle (to make a long U shape) and then putting one or two layers of that behind your seatpost (so that the seatpost strap goes around both seatpost and pipe insulation).  --My wife needed to do that last idea because her Viscacha rubbed the backs of her legs, but it also changed the angle of the pack in a helpful way for the rear suspension.

4.  If none of that helps, sell the Viscacha and buy a Revelate Pika instead.  It's specifically made to help with this.

Farawayvisions has a good list.  I would add a few bits of common logic:

Typically, the handlebar bag is much more of a pain to be opening/closing/repacking repeatedly throughout a day, so therefore people often put "camp" stuff in it and only have to open it at night.  It's easier to stash some clothes in the seat bag because it's easier access--although ideally you don't really want to be repacking this often, either, so then you may put things like a rain jacket in a backpack or other easy-access spot.  Also, camp stuff tends to be light and come in long thin packages, so it just fits well up front.

If you're riding roads, then having more weight on the handlebars is fine.  If I am riding only roads, I aim to have a minimum of stuff (or nothing) on my back, because weight on the back causes more fatigue.  However, if you're riding true singletrack, you probably want more of a balance between weight on the bike vs. weight on your back.  It's usually good to focus on keeping the front end/handlebars as light as possible so the bike still handles well and you can wheelie over obstacles, etc.  For my Colorado Trail trip in a couple weeks, I'm putting nothing on the bars but a Tarptent in a homemade lightweight harness.  Even just adding three more pounds up front makes the handling go to crap for me when riding a trail that technical.

If the shifting is compromised because the cables are forced to make tight turns or otherwise awkward runs, this can sometimes be fixed by simply having the shift cable and housing replaced with longer ones so that they aren't forced into tight bends by your bags.

+1 on the above.  I found that buying my enduro IV a size big was the smart choice, since the ratchets allow you to snug them up tight for riding while giving extra room for comfort on long trips or with thick socks.

Respectfully, I'd agree with the above and say don't run a rack.  With such a new-school, nice bike, how about using a seat bag or other modern setup over an old-school rack that uses the axle?  But if racks are your thing, how about the Freeloader?  Those don't use the axle.

I normally roll pretty lightweight, but a pillow is a luxury I don't go without.  IMHO, those inflatable pillows suck, and so do stuff sacks of clothes and the like.  I went to a craft store and bought a small square pillow for $7 or so.  I pulled out some of the synthetic stuffing (it has a tiny zipper on the case).  It's still big enough to work but packs down small and weighs next to nothing. 

The pair I recently bought is the PI X-Alp Enduro IV.  They're pretty great so far--extremely comfortable.  I tried lots of pairs and, for bikepacking, I like either these or the Giro Terraduro.  However, the Giro's are very expensive and less comfortable than the PI's. 

--I am used to Shimano mtb shoes, in which I wear size 46.  I also wear size 46 street shoes.  I tried both 46 and 47 in the PI's and the 47 was noticeably more comfortable.  Since mtb shoes uses ratchets and are easy to adjust, you may as well size up to give yourself room for thick socks, foot swelling, etc.

According to PI's own website, and the pair I bought last week, they still make the Enduro Alp-X and several good bikepacking shoes, so no worries!

I'd strongly consider getting a bike fit from one or more knowledgeable shops.  Many will do it for free--maybe ask the shop where you bought the Unit.  You shouldn't be riding in pain (at least not until longer than 1.5 hrs, if you're planning on doing the Divide).  Could be something else with your positioning such as stem, seat position, etc.

http://www.bikepacking.com/plog/bikepacking-meal-planning-foodpacking-1/

I'm a fan of Eszter's ideas on there, particularly.  I tried using instant oatmeal as breakfast on the Colorado Trail and had the worst riding day of my life, so never doing that again.

@saubbie23, I took a look at your photos and blog and it was a great read, and informative.  Thinking of tackling the "greatest hits" section(s) of the ride next summer.  Thanks for posting.

In this day and age, pretty much any bike will be more than strong enough for your situation, as mentioned above.  Even if you're carrying 30 lbs of gear, you're probably not subjecting your bikes to the impacts and acute stresses that even a carbon fiber cyclocross race bike is capable of handling.  I wouldn't hesitate to look at lightweight cross or dropbar mountain bikes, and if your budget allows then certainly include carbon fiber in your search.  I primarily ride singletrack but if I were looking for a bikepacking bike for dirt/gravel roads, etc., I would personally be test riding bikes like the new Salsa Cutthroat.  I'd definitely be using a carbon fork and lightweight wheels (as much as budget allows, anyway).

Good to hear.  I ask because about a year from now I am looking to get a remote job and then my wife and I want to travel around for a while and ride lots of different places, particularly in the West (we live in the Southeast).  I'm starting to poke around now for bikes that will allow us to enjoy a variety of trails including a bit of gnar while still feeling reasonably efficient and having fun on XC rides.  Neither of us is ever going to be into downhilling, but from doing the CT last year I know I'd like to have something that can better handle places like the CT, Pisgah and Dupont in North Carolina, etc.

--I'd really like to know in general how much suspension people are getting when buying bikes for riding CT-type stuff.  Looking to get my first full-suspension in another year or so, after many years of riding hardtails.

Stream crossings aren't generally a big deal, and are often rideable.  I'd just let my riding shoes get wet and bring cheap flip-flops for camp.  If, however, your streams are more intense and you really do want a pair of shoes to wear while walking through lots of water, I would not go with Crocs.  They won't stay on your feet any better than flops.  Maybe just get a pair of those Teva-type strap sandals that people wear around water/kayaks/etc. all the time. 

Definitely full squish. I did the CT last year on a hard tail and it really beat me up. I know some people do it, but IMHO it is not the way to go for enjoyment or safety. There are plenty of sections with steep rutted descents littered with softball-sized loose rocks, and you'll be in the middle of nowhere where a crash would be rather unpleasant. Any gear space you lose by not having a frame bag will more than be made up for by increased fun!  Even the racers tend to ride full-squish on this one.