Custom Ti frame ideas

[Foster]

I am getting a custom Ti frame and there are a few things that I have outlined to put into the frame that are specific to bikepacking. And before I give the go ahead on the frame I am wondering if there is anything that would be useful for the design that I am leaving out.  Could I get your input?

This is what I am having done on the frame.

-Ample mud clearance for rear tire up to 2.4".  Going with a 90mm wide BB to help aid extra space on chain stays.
-Full housing mounts for shifting cables and brakes
-3 bottle mounts
-Inner triangle bottle mounts moved downward to provide more room for half frame pack
-Tapered head tube for added stiffness and durability
-Rear Rack mounts for an old man mountain rack in case I ever want to put a rack on.

Is there anything else that would be useful?  That you wished you had on your frame for bikepacking that I dont have listed.  I am hoping to have this frame for a long time so I want it to be done right. 

Thanks for your input.

[NathanM]

What about drop outs, you might want to consider an adjustable dropout so you can easily alternate between geared, single speed or IGH.

Ive been considering either Paragon Sliders or the Salsa Alternator options. - http://salsacycles.com/culture/reasons_to_love_the_alternator_dropout

[Foster]

Great idea, I totally forgot about those.  Thanks nathan.

[Damnitman]

S&S

[mtntraveler]

If you get S&S couplers take some time to consider how your cabling will be routed and where to put the cable quick disconnects.  This is now becoming an issue on my Fargo that was retro fitted with S&S couplers.

[chrisx]

More clearance for a fatter front tire if you want it.
Surly is creating one now. http://surlybikes.com/blog/post/wherein_we_attempt_to_answer_your_krampus_questions
read the second to last post here for an idea
http://forums.mtbr.com/29er-bikes/schlumpf-cranks-690115.html
The upper bottle mount on the fargo is by far the most convient.

under frame bottle mount can be desirable

[woody]

Hey Foster,
Not sure what manufacturer you are going with, but....
Definitely look into the sliders.
Moots, Eriksen, and Serotta has sliders has an option.
Moots has the YBB so you get an inch of rear travel - I don't think Eriksen or Serotta offer that.
And I think Serotta is the only one that offers a belt drive option. (Stephen Huddle has this option with a Rohloff)
  Drop Stephen a PM and see if you can pick his brain.
If you go with the sliders you can get sliders for geared, SS, or Rohloff.
I know Moots does not offer the belt drive option and I'm not sure if Eriksen does.
I do think Rohloff has different cable stops so don't forget to add that to your list if you go that way.
Plus with the sliders you can stretch out the rear wheel and get some more flex out of that Ti frame.

I think you can even get a few water bottle braze-ons add the the rear triangle.

Enjoy and keep us posted,

Woody

[Flounder]

I just built up my dream bike last summer. One thing I wanted was the ability to convert from singlespeed to gears. That's why I went with Paragon sliders. The one thing I really wanted was internal cables and hydro lines. It just makes mounting bags a thousand times easier with limited threat of the bags damaging housings and lines.

By the way, I have a bike with S&S couplers and never use it. Anymore with companies like BikeFlights shipping a bike is dirt cheap and way easier than flying with it. I's use S&S if my travels were more international, but for domestic, shipping is soooo much easier....and cheaper.

[sfuller]

With that wider BB, you could maybe think about clearance for the new Surly 3.0" Knard tires. They might be overkill, but depending on where you are going and what you are riding on, they might not be. Of course, that will affect your hub, fork and driveline choices too.

[TWebb]

Sliders for sure! I tore off a rear der. On a bike packing trip this year. Converted the bike to sing speed and it saved my trip.

[keeb]

Why not go straight 44mm headtube instead of tapered, and you'll be able to fit any fork/headset combo you ever want.  (until the bike industry comes up with another "standard")  Personally, I've always hated the look of tapered, and thought it was an unnecessary stop in the evolution of headtubes.

[Flounder]

My head tube is 44mm for the reasons you just outlined. It's in that photo above. It makes for a better joint at the top tube as I was told by Daryl at Form.

[Foster]

Considering going with the belt drive and I am wondering if anyone has any experience with these and how they hold up to mud?  Is there any issues of the belt coming off?

[jhl99]

If I was going custom:
0.  Geometry that fits my posture and riding style--otherwise, what is the point?
1.  Cables routed on top of top tube.
2.  Custom designed rear rack bosses and rear rack.
3.  Bottle bosses under the down tube, just in case, probably would not use them + 1 set on seat tube and one set on down tube
4.  Some kind of eyelets on drive side seat stay to zip tie spare spokes to frame
5.  Rigid front fork... eyelets on both top and bottom of dropout.  Mid blade braze on and
custom mounting bracket at crown for custom from rack/lowrider
6.  If I wanted single speed capability... 'alternater style' rear dropouts, but I don't
7.  26" or 650B wheels, with room to put a standard sized frame pump behind the seat tube and in front of the rear tire
8.  Steel construction
9.  More of an old school main diamond shape vs modern super sloping top tube
10.  I would look long and hard for a production frame that I could live with... which I found, for a fraction of what custom would cost.....your milage may vary!

[Flounder]

Foster, it's just anecdotal but everyone that I know who tried belts eventually went back to chains. None of them said anything terribly negative about belts, though. None of them raved about them either. Always thought that was strange.

[Foster]

Except for two things my list is very similar. 

If I was going custom:
0.  Geometry that fits my posture and riding style--otherwise, what is the point?
1.  Cables routed on top of top tube.
2.  Custom designed rear rack bosses and rear rack.
3.  Bottle bosses under the down tube, just in case, probably would not use them + 1 set on seat tube and one set on down tube
4.  Some kind of eyelets on drive side seat stay to zip tie spare spokes to frame
5.  Rigid front fork... eyelets on both top and bottom of dropout.  Mid blade braze on and
custom mounting bracket at crown for custom from rack/lowrider
6.  If I wanted single speed capability... 'alternater style' rear dropouts, but I don't
7.  26" or 650B wheels, with room to put a standard sized frame pump behind the seat tube and in front of the rear tire
8.  Steel construction
9.  More of an old school main diamond shape vs modern super sloping top tube
10.  I would look long and hard for a production frame that I could live with... which I found, for a fraction of what custom would cost.....your milage may vary!