Hub dynamo and electronics thread.

[bmike-vt]

A lot of the randonneuring guys and gals use the Edge series with extra battery packs and / or dyno hubs and the USBWerk, Sinewave or the LuxusU - from what I've read most of them run all day and night off the built in battery and dyno. Some models require getting special plugs that have the data part of the USB shorted or pulled out. I think those were the old 510 units though.

I imagine running the light and the GPS at night at the same time will either slow charging or dim the light or both - although I have trickle charge an iPhone (no GPS or apps running, but it was on as normal) while running my eDeluxe at night and don't notice a difference except on climbs.

[robinb]

I wouldn't think I would try charging the GPS, using the GPS and using the lights.  I was planning on a more simple - during daylight hours, charge the GPS (and use it), at night just use the GPS off it's own battery (which should be plenty charged by this time) and switch the dyno to the light only.

Anyone know why this may be a risky plan, I would like to hear your thoughts.

robin

[Moyo]

Anybody on this thread looking to sell any dynamo equipment?
I'm looking for some deals.

Ignore this post if you are not.
Carry on.

Thanks
Andrew

[bmike-vt]

I wouldn't think I would try charging the GPS, using the GPS and using the lights.  I was planning on a more simple - during daylight hours, charge the GPS (and use it), at night just use the GPS off it's own battery (which should be plenty charged by this time) and switch the dyno to the light only.

Anyone know why this may be a risky plan, I would like to hear your thoughts.

robin

For bikepacking my only worry would be long stretches where you are burning more power than you are adding to the GPS... so in theory, you should have power left over for night running - but if there is alot of HAB or slow going (really depends on how slow you can move and put out enough power to charge the GPS while it is in use) you might run out of juice.

[pyro_]

Any comments on how well these hubs do being fully submerged? Considering getting one however I do some creek/river crossings where it would end up completely under water

[Ailuropoda]

I recently started using a SP PD8 dynamo hub built into a Stan's Arch EX rim.  It was kind of weird-feeling when I picked it up from my LBS.  If you hold it in your hands by the axle and spin the wheel it seems very jerky and comes to a stop quickly which is sort of disconcerting.  However, once I installed the tire, pumped it up, and put it on the fork it seems to spin like any other wheel except when it gets slow where it does a few notchy jumps back and forth before it stops.

On the road I can't tell the difference.  I had a Mavic Crossmax originally.  Seems to roll pretty smoothly and while I know by the laws of physics I am losing power, it is not apparent to me.  

The complete wheel is not that much heavier than the original wheel.  I can't tell the difference.  Something like 200 grams which, as it is all at the hub doesn't really affect much of anything.

With a 29inch wheel with 2.35 inch Schwalbe Nobby Nic tires it starts to charge my iPhone at around 5MPH.  I have a Sinewave Revolution charger.  Seems to work just fine.  I charged my iPhone from about 25 percent to 100 in about three hours of riding at an average speed of around 10 miles per hours.  I plan to use it to charge my lights during the day, Niterider 750s.  

I use AA batteries for my GPS, an Etrex 20.  I don't mind carrying a few batteries.  I get about 20 hours out of a pair of AAs if I don't use the backlight.

I'm also thinking of getting a rechargeable battery pack and just charging this as I ride, plugging in the lights and phone as needed.   Seems simpler than stopping to switch cables but there is the added weight.

[sfuller]

I recently started using a SP PD8 dynamo hub built into a Stan's Arch EX rim.  It was kind of weird-feeling when I picked it up from my LBS.  If you hold it in your hands by the axle and spin the wheel it seems very jerky and comes to a stop quickly which is sort of disconcerting.  However, once I installed the tire, pumped it up, and put it on the fork it seems to spin like any other wheel except when it gets slow where it does a few notchy jumps back and forth before it stops.

This is a completely normal thing for all dyno hubs. Nothing to worry about.

I'm also thinking of getting a rechargeable battery pack and just charging this as I ride, plugging in the lights and phone as needed.   Seems simpler than stopping to switch cables but there is the added weight.

I wouldn't worry about the weight too much. A 6000 mAh pack weighs about 4 - 6 oz and will give you quite a few full recharges for either a phone or a GPS.

[bmike-vt]

Update on my switch system... finally wired it all up. Will get a test this weekend on a short trip.

3D printed dyno switch housing wired up for Exposure Revo and USBWerk. by Mike, on Flickr

3D printed dyno switch housing wired up for Exposure Revo and USBWerk. by Mike, on Flickr

3D printed dyno switch housing wired up for Exposure Revo and USBWerk. by Mike, on Flickr

3D printed dyno switch housing wired up for Exposure Revo and USBWerk. by Mike, on Flickr

3D printed dyno switch housing wired up for Exposure Revo and USBWerk. by Mike, on Flickr

[Yogi the Barry]

Cool! Same switching concept made out of scrap aluminum.
Aluminum bracket is also my GPS base.
Dynamo toggle switch is tucked-in. Look under the GPS' menu button. Toggle forward for light and back for USB charger.
Uses stock Exposure jacks and plugs [EIAJ4]. Matching jacks and plugs with Exposure's allows Plug-n-play and a way to deal with malfunctions and moving pieces on and off the bike [no wire-cutting, splicing or soldering].
LED dashlight [to save GPS battery] utilizing Revo's tailight output.
Update: Had to replace the toggle switch just a few weeks ago. The toggle failed, the light circuit was always open, even with the rubber boot sealing the lever and silicone coating on the bottom. Failed due to moisture, vibration? Would be nice to come up with a simple double throw knife switch instead of a toggle. I could also have more easily used a piece of ~1-1/4" angle aluminum, instead of a bent piece... or a very cool 3D printed base like yours.
http://www.bikepacking.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=5938.0;attach=4768;image

Update on my switch system... finally wired it all up. Will get a test this weekend on a short trip.

[bmike-vt]

I remember studying you're setup when you posted.

I thought about plug and play, may do that with panel mounted connections next time around. Need to test this version. The toggle... I want a weather proof rocker switch for V2.  Have not had the time to research the options out there.

And will likely do a GPS base mount next time.

[Yogi the Barry]

@bmike-vt,
Re: Switch - Let me/us know if you find something more waterproof than the switch we are using. Something totally sealed, not just at the handle using the optional screw-on boot. I've found some sealed switches, but they don't meet my weight-weenie and size criteria. I try my best not to blast the stem area when I wash the bike, but the switch needs to totally keep the elements out.
Re: Plugs/Jacks - When my switch went out about a month ago, I thought my dynamo or light had died. Ka-ch$ng thoughts immediately come to mind. To troubleshoot with jacks and plugs, all I did was unplug the stock dynamo output cord from my connector block and run it straight into the light. Even with a bad switch, I still had a functioning light and could replace the switch at my convenience, not in darkness. Can you tell I have a phobia about running of light in the dark? Guess that's a major driver to have a dynamo system...

Re: No more switch - Getting ready to build up another dynamo hub [15mm TA] wheel for my Ripley LS [existing light is for Ti HT with 9mm QR hub] and was thinking about using a B&M Luxos-U, with it's built-in USB output and not needing a switch, but can't find any positive reviews to convince me to not just move my existing Revo back and forth. Don't know if the anecdotal reviews I've read about water entry are applicable...
-Barry

... The toggle... I want a weather proof rocker switch for V2.  Have not had the time to research the options out there.

[bmike-vt]

I have the Luxos U on my rando / road, gravel bike. So far no issues in the rain and yuck... but that bike doesn't see as much use anymore - the Krampus is just so fun...

Untitled by Mike, on Flickr

The early versions had a problem with water at the switch due to being able to unplug / plug in the USB wire / dongle.
The new version - the one I have - is all sealed - the dongle / wire is attached to the switch so you can't take it apart.
A friend had one on his ECR and he loved it. He did quite a bit of road / gravel on it as well as bikepacking.
Lots of rando guys and gals use them in all weather. They don't quite get the abuse that a MTB would see... but they still get wet.

[bmike-vt]

I really like this switch... but it is only 'on/off' - I know the maker and he may do a 3 position in the future...

TMAT stem switch with 1-1/8" steerer adaptor by A.T., on Flickr

http://www.velolumino.com/tmat-stem-switch2.html

[Yogi the Barry]

Yeah, very cool retro looking switch! Blends right in too. That switch makes me realize how easy it might be to design and print something with 3D printer system. Print up the plastic, insert three brass contacts and a rotating swiper...

I really like this switch... but it is only 'on/off' - I know the maker and he may do a 3 position in the future...

[Yogi the Barry]

Would be curious to know how the beam pattern differs between the Luxos and the Revo, from a mountain biking perspective, once you get some time riding with the Revo. I've heard the Luxos has more of a traffic friendly beam pattern, since it was probably designed for the Euro market.

I have the Luxos U on my rando / road, gravel bike. So far no issues in the rain and yuck... ...snip...They don't quite get the abuse that a MTB would see... but they still get wet.

[bmike-vt]

I've been riding with both for over a year. The Revo is (IMO) a better light for gravel / forest roads / single track. The Luxos can work, but it does have a cutoff beam per the German standards for traffic.

[bmike-vt]

Yeah, very cool retro looking switch! Blends right in too. That switch makes me realize how easy it might be to design and print something with 3D printer system. Print up the plastic, insert three brass contacts and a rotating swiper...

Hmmmmmmmm. 

[bmike-vt]

I really like the magnetic reed switches on the Edeluxe lights. You can pull the whole  'switch' right off and clean everything and then pop it back on. All sealed to the weather.

[Lentamentalisk]

Would be curious to know how the beam pattern differs between the Luxos and the Revo, from a mountain biking perspective, once you get some time riding with the Revo. I've heard the Luxos has more of a traffic friendly beam pattern, since it was probably designed for the Euro market.

The Revo is like a flashligh, and the Luxos U is like a car headlight. Like you said, the luxos is "traffic" friendly, as it it lights up the road instead of blinding people. This is amazing, because it only puts light where you need it. If you are riding on a road or bike path, or anything like that, it will not blind everyone coming towards you. However, on really sudden slope changes like you see while mountain biking, this can be a little annoying because the light distribution is so shaped that when it isn't level, things are all the wrong brightness. This can be really diminished by also using a headlamp, even if it is a pretty dim one.

I'd say the Revo is only really even an option if nobody else is around. I would never use it if I planned to be riding on roads. Since it doesn't have a shaped beam, it will do a better job of illuminating any branches that are about to smack you in the face, but like I said, will also blind anyone coming your way.

[Yogi the Barry]

Re: Revo experience - Thanks for the feedback on the Luxos. I've been using the Revo for almost two seasons now as a mountain bike light. I'm happy with it for that usage. I also commute with it in the winter, but aim it down a bit more. Also, my commute has minimal auto traffic to deal with.
The allure of the Luxos for me is the built-in USB charger, but sounds like the Revo is still the better light for mountain biking. The weight-weenie part of me also wants to know what the total weight of the Luxos is compared to my Revo, switch and charger combined...
I read a review on the [1st gen] Luxos. The reviewer's main complaint was the minimal difference between the 'low' and 'high' beam settings. Too bad the 'high' isn't a true blinding traffic high beam without a cutoff.
Unless I'm doing something like a 24-hr event, when I don't care about the weight of batteries and I'm running a helmet light that's as bright or brighter than my Revo, my helmet light is in the minimal 100-170L range. For bikepacking, I usually only use the helmet light when the dynamo light fades away, during a granny gear climb and/or HAB, or as a camp light.

The Revo is like a flashligh, and the Luxos U is like a car headlight. Like you said, the luxos is "traffic" friendly, as it it lights up the road instead of blinding people. This is amazing, because it only puts light where you need it. If you are riding on a road or bike path, or anything like that, it will not blind everyone coming towards you. However, on really sudden slope changes like you see while mountain biking, this can be a little annoying because the light distribution is so shaped that when it isn't level, things are all the wrong brightness. This can be really diminished by also using a headlamp, even if it is a pretty dim one.

I'd say the Revo is only really even an option if nobody else is around. I would never use it if I planned to be riding on roads. Since it doesn't have a shaped beam, it will do a better job of illuminating any branches that are about to smack you in the face, but like I said, will also blind anyone coming your way.