Krampus build

[GerritD]

Hi all, apologies for an open-ended question but I'm putting together a Krampus frame scratch (the full builds are sold out in Canada). I'm working with a buddy who works at the bike shop I'm ordering it through and expecting to mostly just follow the stock build list but I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for anything I should do differently from stock. I'm okay spending a little more but don't want to go overboard. Will be using it for 50% messing around on local single track and 50% 2-3 day bikepacking trips.
Thanks!

[Eastman]

I'm going to follow this with interest - looking to do the same.  My rough thoughts for my build include putting a Pike fork up front, putting a bit of $$$ into the wheelset (tubeless ready aluminum rims), and some carbon fibre in the cockpit (handlebar, seatpost - Syntace P6 maybe) and a good saddle.

Like you, will use it for trail riding and bikepacking.  Like you, Canadian. 

[pavementgraveldirt]

I would recommend against the Surly Crank that comes on the Ops.  It has  a unique bolt pattern that is hard to find rings for.

I would also probably go for Velocity Blunts or Dually's, or something not single wall.

If you are going 10-11-12 make sure the rear mech has a clutch.  If I was building from stock and was going 1x I would take a hard look at the Sram NX Series.

High engagement hubs are always nice.

[GerritD]

thanks for the feedback! what are thoughts on 1X vs. 2X? I've seen both. I'm biased towards fewer moving parts but if 2X10 makes a big difference compared to 1X11 or even 1X10 then I'll go for it.

[Sparkyga]

Go with friction shifters regardless of what drivetrain you go with. Bulletproof and works with anything.

Look into the Stans Hugo rims as well. Really good stuff.

[bakerjw]

1x or 2x... I lamented over that for a while as I started specing out a new bike. I rode parts of the TD back in June on a heavy Karate Monkey with a 2x Shimano drivetrain. 24/40 up front and 11-36 in the rear.

My next bike and gear will be much lighter.

As I ground up some passes in Montana, with a 2x configuration, I could shift up or down a gear to keep at a cadence that was comfortable. Keep in mind that a cadence that is comfortable after 6 or 7 hours can be very different than the one at 9 to 11 hours. With a 1x, when you start getting into the big sprockets in the back, the sprocket tooth count increases between gears. If you are grinding a long grade, you might be stuck between one that is too hard and one that is too easy.

In the end, I looked at the gear flexibility, weight and cost and went 2x10. Shimano XTR 2x10 components are really reasonable now.

Now if I am building just a go climb and have fun bike, then 1x becomes a viable option.

[jeremy11]

I recently got a used Krampus with Fox 140 mm fork (very plush!), Rabbit Hole rims, Knard tires, and Hope SS hubs. Drivetrain is 1x7 with 9 speed Shimano equipment (7 of 9 on a singlespeed hub), Avid BB7 brakes, etc.
I'd prefer 2x7 or 2x9 to allow for granny climbing more stuff, but not sure I want to get a new crank and FD to accommodate an infrequent need.

Its a great bike.

[clydeone]

I would also probably go for Velocity Blunts or Dually's, or something not single wall.
 

I know this is off topic but I am not sure why everyone is against the Rabbit Hole's - I have had zero problems with mine - I built them myself all the way back in 2013 when they first came out - both front and rear are now on their second hub (the front to go to a new fork (110x15 thru-axle) and the back because the hub had to be replaced.   The rims built up easy and have held up beautifully.  I am a big guy (6' 6" and 260)  and do not ride gently either.  I realize there are "better" options for the money now, but performance wise I have zero complaints. 

[bmike-vt]

I have my Krampus setup as SS with a MRP stage or a Rohloff with a dyno. 2 different beasts...

Bikepacking:
Krampus on the trail by Mike, on Flickr

You can see the custom made charging switch that I 3d printed for controlling the exposure Revo in this shot, right @ the steerer tube. It switches between the light, off, and USBwerk:
IMG_4997 by Mike, on Flickr


Singletrack machine:
Untitled by Mike, on Flickr

SS machine is running WTB Scraper on King hubs. I've got a bar end and Paul Thumbie - I'm going to try a 1x5 for bikepacking on it... will be a nice blend between my setups (no dyno, I'd keep the fork for rough stuff).


I'm not sold on the Rohloff. Certainly great for an adventure bike... I would have torn off multiple rear mechs on my trip last fall due to schwacking - but it adds weight, and it does not engage like the King hubs do... so it takes some remembering when I switch over and I ride it on techy single track.

[harryonaspot]

Hi Mike  how did you mount the Garmin to your bars? I can't find a mount for the etrex 20x
Thanks
Harry

[Spec44]

Pretty sure he's using the Garmin Bike/Cart Mount...it's attached with zip ties.

[bmike-vt]

Hi Mike  how did you mount the Garmin to your bars? I can't find a mount for the etrex 20x
Thanks
Harry

https://buy.garmin.com/en-US/US/shop-by-accessories/mounts/bike-cart-mount/prod11411_010-11023-00.html

[harryonaspot]

Thanks for that.

[bikeny]

My first recommendation is also to nut use Rabbit Hole rims. There are MUCH better options out there these days. The Rabbit Holes are pretty heavy, single wall, and are a pain to setup tubeless. I would recommend:

WTB Scraper (Either I45 or the newer I40 version)
Easton Arc+, available in 45, 40, and 30mm inner width,
Kore Realm, available in 45 & 35mm inner width
SunRingle Duroc, available in 46 & 36mm inner width

Those are all nice double wall with good tubeless designs. Weights and pricing vary, starting at around $60 for the Kore rims.
I'm not a fan of the Velocity Dually, mainly because their tubeless setup is not foolproof.

You are going tubeless, right???

As for the rest of the components, choose what makes sense for your intended usage. Scour Ebay and online retailers for OEM components etc., and you should be able to set yourself up nicely.

[vikb]

Hi all, apologies for an open-ended question but I'm putting together a Krampus frame scratch (the full builds are sold out in Canada). I'm working with a buddy who works at the bike shop I'm ordering it through and expecting to mostly just follow the stock build list but I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for anything I should do differently from stock. I'm okay spending a little more but don't want to go overboard. Will be using it for 50% messing around on local single track and 50% 2-3 day bikepacking trips.
Thanks!

I've had my Krampus over 3yrs now. Great bikepacking bike. 

Some thoughts:

- Rabbit Holes have been durable and 100% reliable tubeless with easy setup.
- I started rigid, went to a 130mm fork and am now back to rigid. Pros and cons to both setups, but the bike rides really well rigid.
- I started with a Rohloff and I am just now switching to gears. I plan to go SS for some trips where being light and robust is more important than gear range.
- Knards are great gravel and pavement tires.
- Chupas are great singletrack/dirt tires.
- my current geared wheelset uses Velocity Blunt 35 rims.
- I'm going to build up a Rabbit Hole geared rear wheel so I can keep 2 different sets of tires mounted and switch as desired.
- if money was no object I'd buy some ~38-40mm Light Bicycle carbon rims.
- I have a Whisky carbon fork, but haven't installed it yet. Not sure if I will or use it elsewhere.



Have fun. It's a really terrific machine. 

https://vikapproved.wordpress.com/2015/09/27/surly-krampus-3yr-review/