Question to those on a drop bar 9-speed rig

[trebor]

This is for anyone that can lend some insight please.

I have a Fargo with STI Shimano shifters; 3x9-speed variety. The cranks are MTB triple. Problem: crappy front shifting.

Using an MTB front der wasn't successful. So I got this hoping is was the solution: http://harriscyclery.net/product/ird-alpina-d-compact-road-triple-front-derailleur-2435.htm

It is better than the road shifter/mtb der combo by far, but still not that good. What's the secret? Is there a secret?

I'm thinking of stripping all the 2x10 speed stuff off a cross bike (I don't ride it anyway) and using that group - but since it's got road cranks my chain ring options are limited.

Any insight appreciated.

[Area54]

I used a Tiagra triple front mech, flawless shifting. This was with an XT triple crank, on 3x8, then 3x9, and then 2x10 Apex, same front mech.

Fargo, with STI shifters.

[bmike-vt]

Stock 2012 Fargo for me so 2x10. Replaced to stock crank with something a bit better and shifting improved. Added SRAM inline adjusters and that helped too.

If I rolled on a triple I would use a bar end for front. Integrated for rear. And of stick with SRAM for that.

[Area54]

I used a SRAM mtb triple shifter on the end of some aero bars at one point, to shift on the mtb triple. Again, with the tiagra front mech.

Play around with the width of the shifter cage too, by bending the outer plate to tune shift timing and limits.

[joeydurango]

What crankset are you using?  An awful lot of OEM cranksets are absolute crap - everyone looks at the rear derailleur for the nameplate and generally they gloss right over the crankset/rings.  If you're running an FSA crankset, that's your problem.  Truvativ/SRAM is better by a bit.  Shimano's cranksets/rings - even the lower end ones - are pretty bomber and shift nicely, generally speaking.  As I recall Salsa spec'd quite a few bikes with FSA cranks for a couple years.  In which case - go to your favorite LBS, have them hook you up with a new Shimano triple, and put your Shimano derailleur back on there... take the FSA and IRD parts and make a mobile or something.

If you're on Shimano cranks/rings, and they're not all worn out, then perhaps the derailleur just needs some pro attention - no offense, but even a lot of shops have trouble with front ders.

[bmike-vt]

I ditched the stock crank on my 2012 and got a SRAM 1400 or something. Huge improvement...

[trebor]

Since this was a frame-up build, OEM cranks aren't in the equation. I've used a couple of different cranks the last 2 years. Mostly a set of 08 or 09 TruVativ Stylo. I did run a Shim Deore in the past. Don't recall shifting performance when that crankset was on there. Right now is a set of Carbon FSA. These are seeming to be the most problematic.

In your opinion, Joey, is it really the crank arms so much, or the rings? I use ALL sorts of different rings. Blackspire, FSA, RaceFace, Shimano. I've always liked RaceFace rings for their shifting.

 

[joeydurango]

Well, mostly the rings.  I don't like FSA cranks for other reasons - but none that should affect shifting performance.  I like RF rings as well, nice pins and ramps!  On some of those bikes, though, FSA cranks with proprietary 3-bolt spider/rings were used - which meant you couldn't use other rings.  Not a factor in your case, obviously!

[trebor]

So the consensus is -- run a road front mech with a road shifter. Get good rings.

The issue I'm having (but have yet to use a front dedicated style road mech) is that the chainline is usually different road and MTB; 45mm and 50mm respectively. This means I shim the BB and can't reach the inner or outer ring. The mech is at its limit/hard stop. The other, which may be perceived more than real, is the seat tube angle differences in road and MTB. The der is way off the radius of the outer ring. Seeming to add to the difficulty of moving the chain "up" to the next ring.

So, Area54, are you shimming your BB one way or another? Also, do you think the Tiagra line has more wiggle room or "slop" to accommodate the use on the MTB with its differing chain line and seat tube angle?

Thanks all for the feedback!

[chrisx]

09 fargo
xt cranks. replaced 44 with 46 saint ring
friction shifters, (suntour power thumb shifters)
xt der m773?
no problems
friction shifters fix most problems

[Area54]

So, Area54, are you shimming your BB one way or another? Also, do you think the Tiagra line has more wiggle room or "slop" to accommodate the use on the MTB with its differing chain line and seat tube angle?

Ooooooh, I can't recall now, been a year and a bit since. I don't recall shimming specially to suit the derailleur throw, it just worked with the bb spaced to suit the frame (68mm shell) I really only chose this mech, as 1) I had it in my parts bin during the very first build; and 2) the cable anchor bolt cleared the full length fenders I was using at the time (most other mechs fouled on the fender). No longer run fenders, unless the trip is going to be very wet, so mech stayed on for this occasion. Now running X9 2x10 crank.

[murf]

I used and old school xt front derailleur. It looks similar to rival and apex .it worked flawlessly with those shifters and xt cranks.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

[shakes]

I used and old school xt front derailleur. It looks similar to rival and apex .it worked flawlessly with those shifters and xt cranks.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2

Interesting - that doesnt work on mine... 2x set up with trim it works amazingly well.

I had to go to a road triple and tweak a little as per area54's first post. (and my reason for fitting was exactly the same as his too)

[mtntraveler]

Hi My Fargo is set up all Shimano 3x9 with and action tek 36 t single custom cassette cog, bar end shifters the way to go and you have a reasonably clean cable routing.  Shifts good