Rear hub advice

[Smo]

So I'm looking to build a rear wheel and looking for a hub.  The Shimano SLX series was recommended to me as the most reliable cheap hub, only occasionally having freehub problems (and I spin a high cadence; I go *easy* on my drivetrain).  I already have a Flow EX rim (32 spokes), which I could use for this or save for the front wheel later, when I get the funds to build it.  My questions are:

-does 32 versus 36 spokes matter much anymore?  I wanted to do a 36 rear, 32 front originally.  But I already have the 32 hole rim and my rear wheel needs replacing more than my front.  And requiring 36 holes limits my hub options quite a bit.  Sheldon Brown has some great advice on this but I'm not sure it applies to a Flow EX (being such a strong rim) and with disc brakes, where both wheels will experience torque.

-I want a 6-bolt hub, not centerlock.  Am I being too picky here?  I'm not the kind of person who is going to change rotors very frequently, so the multiple bolts doesn't bother me, and I'd rather not add another part to my bike that I can't carry the tools to work on.

Basically the SLX hubs come either in a 36 hole, centerlock hub or a 32 hole, 6-bolt hub.  So I have to compromise on one of these.  Right now I'm leaning towards going 32 hole 6-bolt, because the flow EX seems like such a strong rim.  But I'm curious what advice seasoned backpackers have on this.  The two I'm looking at are:

The M529 (32 hole, 6-bolt)
The M675 (36 hole, centerlock)

EDIT: Answering some of my own questions here - the M529 for some reason I thought was part of the SLX lineup.  Maybe I saw a listing that said SLX for it somewhere online, or maybe I've just been looking up too many hubs.  Either way, it doesn't come with the same recommendation that my friend gave me.  Interesting.

[adelorenzo]

Nobody needs 36 spokes on a mountain bike any more. Maybe on a road bike used for heavy touring but that is about it.

IME, shimano freehubs do not have a good track record even at the XT level. But I don't think you can find anything better at the price.

[Adam Alphabet]

Perhaps some of the wheel building experts could chime in here but here are a couple things to 'possibly' consider....

*Are you a clyde?
*Are you going to put 50lbs of gear on your bike?
*Are you building a specific bikepacking wheel or an all arounder?
*Are you glass smooth or a monster trucker...hardtail or susser?

I only have one wheelset for everything; 'Shredding the gnar' here in BC on my 29er rigid/hardtail, some xc/marathon races, bikepacking all over the place, bike touring all over the place as well. My 32 King's on Arch EX's and my Rohloff on Arch EX built by my friend who's built wheels for the likes of Geoff Gulevich have held up amazingly. A good builder will be more important than the number of spokes in my unqualified opinion haha.

32 all the way for me ATMO!

[Smo]

Interesting thoughts.  Am I going to put 50 lbs of gear on the bike?  Probably not.  My backpacking base weight is around 10 lbs, unless I add packrafts or ropes.  So most bikepacking trips won't involve that much gear.  I do have dreams of a traverse across Sedona including 2 or 3 technical spire climbs, which would require a hell of a lot of gear.  But not *that* much more than a bikepacking setup, and it would be a (long) day trip if it ever happens, not an overnighter.  I doubt I'll ever do technical climbing + bikepacking together.  It'll be hard enough to find someone to do that day trip with me.

This is on a hardtail 29er, by the way.  And I've had great success with my previous hand-built wheels (or even machine built wheels after I've trued them).  So I have confidence in the builder.   

What about the centerlock versus 6 bolt issue for bikepacking?  Anyone have any opinions?  Should I just get an SLX hub, slap an adapter on it and forget about it?  I don't think I'm gonna be changing rotors in the middle of a bikepacking trip anyway, and i can't imagine the adapters fail very often if at all.  This is what happens to bike mechanics going bikepacking, you try to cover every contingency . . . probably a bit much.

[Adam Alphabet]

IME, shimano freehubs do not have a good track record even at the XT level.

My experience as well. I've fried 2 XT free hubs on two different wheel sets but they had a tonne of miles on them.

What about the centerlock versus 6 bolt issue for bikepacking?  Anyone have any opinions?  Should I just get an SLX hub, slap an adapter on it and forget about it? 

My old mountain bike had 32 hole XT's on some Velocity rims. The hubs were centerlock with the adapter. Never once did I have a single problem with a rotor or adapter and that wheel set took hella abuse and had a tonne of miles on it over the 3 or 4 years I rode them. 

[Area54]

Hope hubs, 36H. Weight is not an issue. It's good to have redundancy with 4 more spokes.

[SVO]

Yes, Hope for sure.  And over 36 spokes only needed when you get to super high torque, like the tandem mentioned or a buddy of mine who is NFL-sized.

[abominablesnowman]

I think you will be fine with 32 spokes unless you are over 220lbs or packing serious weight.  The flow ex rims are plenty stiff.  I have built wheels using both hope hubs and shimano 26 and 29, all with 32h, never felt like more was necessary.  I weigh 180 and take up to 40lbs extra on the bike when fully loaded with H2O for bikepacking.  Currently on my bikepacking bike (Salsa El Mariachi) I have Flow Ex 32h 29" laced to red hope proII hubs with DT competition 2.0/1.8/2.0 double butted spokes.

Things to consider:

Hope hubs are nice and are a good deal when compared with other top-end hubs (king, etc.), but are still expensive.  Also they are loud which for me is only noticeable when I am pushing the bike around the house, and has never bothered me on the trail.   The freehubs are fully serviceable with 4 independent springs and pawls.  Even if one breaks on a ride (which has never happened to me) you would still make it out fine.  Bearings are replaceable cartridges: easy replacement in 4-5 yrs, no need to adjust bearing tension.  Also convertible to any type of axle.

Shimano hubs are cheap and (nearly) silent, but have durability/serviceability issues.  I run those on my beater/around town bike.  Personally I've never had a problem, but others have.  The freehub is not serviceable, replacements are ~$30.  I would recommend to get SLX or better yet XT, the differences are in the quality of the dust seals.  Bearings are loose ball bearings slathered in grease with cup/cone adjustment.  This takes some practice to get right, and some cone wrenches, but it's not hard once you get a feel for it.

[Smo]

Interesting.  I was referred to the SLX specifically as being a little *more* durable than the XT . . . but from research and the comments here I'm gathering that's not the case.  That makes me think about the XT M756 as another option.

What I would really like to do is try a bike with hope hubs and see if the noise drives me crazy or not.  They're not *that* expensive.  But I'd hate to build the wheel and then want to get rid of it for the noise.

[MikeC]

Consider DT 350 hubs.  Every bit as durable as the Hopes, but lighter, better sealed against moisture intrusion, easier to maintain when the time comes, and yes, cheaper to boot.

Oh, and the 350's are about 10% as annoying as the Hope when it comes to noise.

Best hub going when you factor all of the above into the matrix.

[NT]

Another plug for the DT 350s. Super reliable in my experience and easy to service. As a bonus, you can remove the cassette and freehub together without a tool to provide access to your drive side spokes.

[Smo]

Sounds like the DT 350 is the ticket.  I think I had ignored it in my previous research in my zeal for 36 spokes.  I'll probably push the rear hub build back until mid-summer when I have a bit more cash to do it, but it sounds like a great option.  I really like the fact that you don't need a tool to replace a rear spoke, that's awesome.

[wbcmaelstrom]

Used DT240 or a new DT350. I have 16POE rear DT240 on my Pugsley (bought a set for $200 on Pink Bike, but couldn't use the front on that bike) and the noise is 110% less annoying than King.

DT240 are ceramic bearings and made in Switzerland. DT350 are made in Taiwan. Usually a used DT240 is about the price of a new DT350.

Everyone has their preference and will find fault in any of the fancy hubs, but I can't remember seeing anyone knock a DT240.

[ridebikeme]

Another great option and more in line with the SLX you were talking about is SRAM. The X5 or X7 models have done really well, and many people riding though the winter months will use SRAM. And lastly, if you should have issues, SRAM has excellent customer service!!

[bakerjw]

Good points and lots of good advice. I'm looking to build up a 29" wheelset for a DT bike that is in the planning stages. I am hovering at 200 pounds right now (I was at 260 back in March) so I'd still technically be a clydesdale. I'll also be carrying eight on the bike so I'm leaning toward 36 hole rims and hubs for the rear. I came across the DT Swiss 540 tandem hub and it looks promising. Any thoughts?

For the front hub, I'm leaning toward  the Shimano generating hub but I am sure that there are other options.
Advice?
Thoughts?

Thanks
John