What kind of bike do you use for multi-day trips?

[Marshal]

Voodoo Aizan 29er made from Scandium.

Run with Reba forks, Bonty tubeless wheels and tyres and Reveleate bags and a SRAM / Shimano mix.

Frame was cheap, £90 ex dem and parts were a mix of second hand / bargains.

Looking at changing tyres and overhauling running gear before TD11.  Not sure about going to rigid for TD but in UK happy to stick with front suspension.

I had my Reba locked out enough ‘time wise’ on the TDR to tell me that even I might have gotten away with a rigid fork. 

On the other hand there are so many slightly rutted or somewhat rocky sections, day after day…….

Like all equipment choices there are trade offs, but for most I think front suspension is the slightly better choice

[wdlandparker]

I agree, if what you know is front suspension, don't change that for the GDR.

[jakomait]

I run against the grain with my setup but I like to charge the downhills pretty hard so I found the lightest long travel trail bike I could get my grubby hands on.

I ride a Cannondale Rize Carbon 140 with RockShox Revelation 150 in front.  26" wheels, 2.4" tires run tubeless.  The rest is all fancy schmancy SRAM XX with carbon weight weenie stuff everywhere else.  I really like the 2x10 with 26/39 rings and 11-36 cog.  Bike is about 22lbs without gear and all I strap to it is a sleeping bag off the bars and my water in bottles.  Too much weight on the bike makes it handle poopy in the twisty stuff so I lug it around in a small pack on my back.  

[Blackhound]

Thanks for advice on Reba - no decision yet as I would have to buy some rigid forks - but may stick with Reba's.  I do ride rigid on s/s over winter but as I am over 50 I was thinking the additional comfort on ageing muscles would be preferable to lighter weight.

Kev

[Slim]

2010 Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 29er Expert  XL.

Here is the list of design requirements, this is for riding true MTB single track:

    * durability – obviously a ‘packing bike is subjected to higher loads and will be used for several days in a row, so this is paramount.
    * comfort and control – a backpack makes cockpit positioning more critical and the extra weight makes impacts harder. It is also less easy to control your body and bike with more weight.
    * low rolling resistance – the goal is to cover some ground after all, so this is key in sand and rocky terrain.
    * efficient pedaling – it’s hard enough work already.
    * stiff frame, fork and wheels – for better control with a heavier load
    * low weight – there is enough extra weight in the camping gear and food. Also bikepacking rides have a larger proportion of hike-a-bikes than normal rides.

Ended up with the following:

I addressed these needs with the following choices (budget contraints were in effect):

    * 29er: Low rolling resistance including through sand and better rolling over rocks and holes at low speeds than a 26er, more control.
    * 130mm travel full suspension bike with BRAIN damping and low BB height: Provides control at higher speeds, as well as comfort without sacrificing pedaling efficiency, makes it easy to get on and off the bike.
    * 120mm fork through axle Fox fork: stable enough at speed blasting into the unknown but quick enough for easy climbing. Extra travel yields more control at high speeds and with loads. I would have liked a travel adjustable fork for more relaxed climbing.
    * Stan’s Arch rim rear, Flow rim front with butted spokes  and brass nipples on Hope hubs, 7 cogs on singlespead rear hub: tubeless rims for less rolling resistance, less flats and more traction, fairly ligh and tough. Dishless wheels front and rear for max strength and stiffness without extra weight or cost. Bolt-on rear and though axle front for more stiffness and reliability. Quick engagement rear hub for ‘ratcheting’ in rocky sections.
    * High sweep Ragley bar with Ergon grips: for ergonomics.  I only ever use lock-on grips for safety and ease of adjustment.
    * Specialized Command Post adjustable seatpost: More control on descents and in cornering, more endurance on climbs, the best upgrade to any bike!
    * 180 mm cranks with bash: to keep the weight a bit more forward with my freakishly long legs and to be able to just roll over anything.
    * Long stem: keeps us tall folks from having all the weight over the rear of the bike.
    * Avid Elixer CR brakes, 8″ front rotor and 7″ rear: For the same feel you need a larger rotor on a 29″ wheel. Also larger rotors do better at heat dissipation, improving safety on long descents with a heavy load.
    * Captain Armadillo Elite 29x2.2 tire: super durable but reasonable weight.

[Damnitman]

Ti Fatback...103mm rims...

[phil_rad]

I'm currently running a Niner SIR 9, single speed, White Bros. Magic 80 fork, Mike C Wheels, Geax Saguaro 2,2 tires. Full on Revelate Design bags. No back pack; although I had one on the TDR this year, bad mistake IMO. Marshal's right; it doesn't matter what bike you use as long as it fits you and you are comfortable riding long hours and multiple days with it. Same goes for gear.
Phil

[JMeiser]

First and foremost, the one your on... bikepacking should be approachable, simple, and fun!  It doesn't take an expensive bike, gear, or a ton of time.  It can, but it doesn't have to.

[Marshal]

First and foremost, the one your on... bikepacking should be approachable, simple, and fun!  It doesn't take an expensive bike, gear, or a ton of time.  It can, but it doesn't have to.

Hi Joe,

Agreed, this sums up all types of biking, at least imo

But any one reading this thread might want to read more about your specific bikepacking bikes, set ups, etc. You bring a lot to the bikepacking table. 

How about it?  If it’s not a conflict for a industry insider perhaps a link could be posted? 

[Schwizzle]

Same bike I ride all the time...Giant Trance X1.

It's durable(have crashed it plenty), lightweight, and low cost for a trail bike. I definitely like something full suspension with 5 inches of travel. My setup is stock except for a new set of IRC 2.1 tires and the Ergon GP1 grips.