Wheel size?

[bikenque]

Hey folks, a quick introduction. I'm a daily bike commuter and regular road tourer from North Georgia who's interested into getting into backcountry bikepacking. Nothing special so far, I've been bike touring and backpacking for years and years and seems like it's time to combine the two.

I'm curious what wheel size folks are dedicated to? I've got a regular 26" (559mm) mtn bike at the moment but the 29er (622mm) seems popular amongst off-road tourists and there's 650b (589mm) on the horizon to split the difference. Do y'all have a preferred wheel size? Based on wheel performance, tire availability, bike geometry, or just that one magic size?

[sean salach]

tire availability:
  winner = 26"
  loser(by a long shot) = 650b

wheel strength:
  winner = 26"
  loser = 29"

comfort/ride quality
  winner(for me) = 29"
 
i use 29". the weight penalty is very slight. if i manage to slice a tire on a longer ride, i almost always have a speedy stitcher and some tape with me to fix it. worst comes to worst, when you get to that bike shop, you can buy a road tire and continue on the road.

[ScottM]

I concur with sean's list, but would add that 29ers win in the "fun" category, too.  And that should be the most important one, right?

29er tires are becoming more available.  Most shops seem to have at least a tire or two, but you won't be able to find one at Ace Hardware for a while...

I would only consider 26" for a long tour outside the US. 

[Twenty-niner]

I run 29" wheels and found that the increased wheel diameter (and the associated decreased rolling resistance) is even more apparent when you are pushing your bike on hike-a-bike sections. 

A couple weeks ago we did the CT, Silverton-Durango via Rico-Silverton Trail... we got a lot of practice pushing. 

[DaveC]

I really see no reason for anyone but the very short (and free ride types) to use 26" wheels for mountain biking.

I love the Bontrager Dry X (XDX, now) tire.  Tough, fast, good handling.

[frejwilk]

I really see no reason for anyone but the very short (and free ride types) to use 26" wheels for mountain biking.

Umm, how short is very short?  And if you're not paying, are you free-ride by default?

Bikenque,
If you've got a 26er at home - then there you go. Personally, I think there's a lot more to bicycle fit and function than just wheel diameter. But I seem to be in the minority these days with thoughts like that. What about suspension? Are you looking to buy a new bike, or just worried you might need something new? It sounds like you already have equipment and experience.

The best way to find out what works is to actually get out there with what you've got. This advice sometimes sounds elitist or dismissive, but it's not meant that way. It's actually where the fun is really found. Get out there and try things out. Hopefully have some fun. Then try again with what worked best, and repeat. People have been riding bikes with all different wheel diameters for many years with lots of success! My guess is that once you start doing it, wheel diameter will drop down the list of your questions.

FW

[ScottM]

I agree with FW - use what you've got, and wheel size is way down there on the priority list compared to getting out there.  Nothing wrong with 26" wheels.  FW has managed to complete the GDR, GLR, CTR and AZT300, all on, gasp!, 26" wheels.

If you are thinking about a new bike, I'd sure consider 29".  I also agree with Twenty-niner above, I notice a difference with 29" wheels for hike-a-bike.  With a loaded bike this is amplified a bit more.  Less time picking up part, or all of the bike is a good thing.

[frejwilk]

I also agree with Twenty-niner above, I notice a difference with 29" wheels for hike-a-bike.  With a loaded bike this is amplified a bit more.  Less time picking up part, or all of the bike is a good thing.

Great, now they tell me. And I thought you guys were just faster hikers. I've even wondered if Scott plans routes to take advantage of his hike a bike ability.

I didn't want to get too far off topic. Just rib Dave a little and put in a vote for not worrying about it (wheel size) too much.

FW

[DaveC]

You suck at hiking because your legs are short.

 

[ScottM]

I've even wondered if Scott plans routes to take advantage of his hike a bike ability.

But of course...

Oracle Ridge anyone?

To be honest, I think I hike slower than most people.  I might have a slight edge when it comes to tolerance, though.

[ScottM]

You suck at hiking because your legs are short.

    

Damn, we need better smilies on this board.  I'll see what I can do.

[DaveH]

Y'all are killin me.  Everyone knows 26" wheeled bikes are faster.  It's just that 29er advocates prefer the non-pedalling portions of a ride:  downhill and  hike a bike.

[ScottM]

Y'all are killin me.  Everyone knows 26" wheeled bikes are faster.  It's just that 29er advocates prefer the non-pedalling portions of a ride:  downhill and  hike a bike.

Hmm, go faster or have more fun.   

I wouldn't say it's the non-pedaling portions -- though you might be able to argue that we prefer the fun (technical) portions of a ride.  I've always been a climber and climbing fun trail on a 29er was what sold me from the get go.

[DaveH]

Faster is more fun. 

...

Sorry Scott, can't help a little heckling whenever this topic comes up   Bikes are fun, period.  I have a few of each wheel size just to keep my bases covered - as you know!

[ScottM]

I know it.  Fast is fun, at times.  Regular fun is fun all the time, tho'.    

[hungry gnome]

I prefer 29.  I rode for many years on a 26.  I am not a very good technical rider and have found that I am surprised at what I can ride over with the 29.

[Slim]

wheel strength:
  winner = 26"
  loser = 29"

The reason that 29er wheels are less strong than  26" wheels is twofold:
1 the rim is bigger, so with the same number of spokes you will have bigger gaps between spokes.
Solution: use more spokes, with lightweight spokes this doesn't have to be a huge weight penalty.

2 the radius of the wheel is greater so the cross section of the wheel is a narrower triangle, especially the rear drive side spokes angle almost straight up/down.
The solution for this is to widen the hub flanges, which can be done in two ways: 1 use a 150mm rear hub(needs a specific, rare frame) or 2 use a single speed hub. Since there are less cogs there is more room for the hub flanges to spread apart.

This is what I'm doing on my new 29er build. A Hope pro II singlespeed hub, with 6 cogs. I get a much stronger(dishless) rear wheel and lose the 3 hardest gears, good trade-off for me, I never pedal that fast anyway. YMMV

[Slim]

Hey folks, a quick introduction. I'm a daily bike commuter and regular road tourer from North Georgia who's interested into getting into backcountry bikepacking. Nothing special so far, I've been bike touring and backpacking for years and years and seems like it's time to combine the two.

I'm curious what wheel size folks are dedicated to? I've got a regular 26" (559mm) mtn bike at the moment but the 29er (622mm) seems popular amongst off-road tourists and there's 650b (589mm) on the horizon to split the difference. Do y'all have a preferred wheel size? Based on wheel performance, tire availability, bike geometry, or just that one magic size?

So if we understand your Q correctly you are asking about our favorite bike right? Because for sure, ride what you have if you don't want a new bike.

For me it was an easy choice to make my new bike a 29er. Here some points, not in order.
1 fit: not an issue for me, toe overlap, I ride an XL frame and have size 11, handlebar height, I have super long legs, so I'm usually raising my bars, not lowering them.
2 rolling through grass, sand and mud, the bigger the better. On bikepacking trips you are more likely not to be on 'groomed' MTB specific trail.
3 I like stable steering when bombing down a rough trail fully loaded. Most 29ers have a lot of trail.
4 When grunting along at  my snails pace up-hill, suspension does nothing to help you get over a rock/root. Bigger wheels do, the bigger the better.
5 When going downhill you can't hop and skip over and around stuff so easy as when you'r on a 'naked' ride, so either more travel or bigger wheels.
6 More suspension travel is harder on uphills with a heavy load.
7 Availability: I ride in the US. suspension forks, fullsuspension frames, and tubeless rims/tires are widely available and tires are available at any bikeshop. If you ride all over the world get 26". If you only ride near your house then 650b is an option.
8 When touring I ride slower than on my 1hr home loop. Slower means wind resistance is less of a factor and rolling resistance is more important. A bigger wheel has less rolling resistance.

My new bikepacking(and only) MTB: a full suspension 29er with puncture resistant tires on tubeless rims, a ss rear hub with 6 cogs, thru-axle front and hopefully travel adjust in the front too. Oh and a Gravity Dropper seatpost or similar remote post. With a backpack your center of gravity is up too high, a lot more controlled to be able to drop the saddle, yet have it at full height to save knees and energy on climbs. And most important, a saddle with a groove in the middle, the extra weight on the back really presses that issue home.