Divide bikes of the future...discuss

[jamescyco]

I've watched with interest the progression of Tour Divide whips over the years, from suspension front to rigid and increasingly the use of 'chippers or the like. I've not done the entire ride/race but did do a several-hundred mile out-and-back on the route through Montana.  For that ride I used a ti 29er with a rigid fork and Jones bars. Worked well but it got me thinking about what the perfect bike for ME on the route would be. No offense, but it seemed more of a glorified gravel ride in most parts I rode so suspension would be overkill and a maintenance liability. Here's my theory: 29er, steel fork and frame (I'm old and understand and can make one), horizontal top tube to pack more centered in the frame bag and off the bars, tall headtube, longish chainstays and short a-c but enough room for 2.2s. Drop bars because I like a more road position for comfort. Basically, a monstercross, much like the Co-Motion Divide, though no Rohloff (I've got two but honestly like a derailleur system better). I've built a few frames and I think this will be my next. Just thinking out loud.

[clydeone]

What did you NOT like about the titanium 29'r? This would be my ultimate material.  I would want a 29+ bike as well.   I would use a rigid fork. 

[THE LONG RANGER]

Squared, wide tubes.

[jamescyco]

What did you NOT like about the titanium 29'r? This would be my ultimate material.  I would want a 29+ bike as well.   I would use a rigid fork. 

I liked it fine. A good steel bike rides better IMO. And the monstercross geometry would suit me better, I think.

[MikeC]

No offense, but it seemed more of a glorified gravel ride in most parts I rode so suspension would be overkill and a maintenance liability.

None taken -- that's exactly what it is ~98% of the time.

As such I think your basic premise of a steel drop-bar MX/gravel grinder makes good sense for the route.

[jamescyco]

Thanks, Mike. Your opinion is valued.

[MikeC]

Thanks, Mike. Your opinion is valued.

I'd never, for any amount of money, do the GDMBR again.

But if I did, and if money were no object...

I'd run a Moots YBB frame with a Lauf fork.  Passive, undamped suspension to take the edge off of stuff that active/hydraulic suspension simply cannot touch.

That and some ~55mm tires run tubeless at some reasonable pressure.

[bakerjw]

I rode a few days of the route last June and had a blast on it and as mentioned, it was mostly gravel which I don't mind. I was on a Surly Karate Monkey with a Rockshox suspension fork. The only place where the fork felt needed was on some descents where there were wash out ruts. Other than that, it was unnecessary. Overall, the KM was a rock solid ride but some of my component choices were a bit on the heavy side so I am doing a new build with an eye on shedding weight were possible.

If things go as hoped, I'll have a Salsa Cutthroat frame here in a few months for a new build (there is a long warranty story in there saved for another time). But, if it were not for me possibly getting the Cutthroat, I'd be getting a modified Carver 420 titanium frame. In chatting with Carver, for a very reasonable fee, they'd take their 420 frame and modify the tubes and top tube/seat stay positioning a bit to open up the front triangle. IMHO, the size of the front triangle is one of the key features that I look for in any bikepacking bike. Their price for the frame and customization was still less than a Lynskey Ridgeline 29 and I'd get a more bikepacking worthy bike.

I am going to go with a MRP Rock Solid carbon fork over one of the usual carbon forks. Since their tubes are round, I can mount my water bottles to them much easier. On my KM, I had 4 water bottle holders on the front forks and they worked great for me. Out of the way and freed up all of the frame triangle.

I was interested in the Lauf fork and how it rode. I asked JK about his experience but didn't hear back. The only thing that I would not be sure of it that the wheel has been reported to have some play to it. Neverthe less, I'd still like to try one.

[Rob Colliver]

+1 for the Lauf.

Its almost as light as a rigid, has 60mm of washboard absorbing travel, no parts to go wrong.

Why suffer numb hands?

I will be stating Billy's race with it for sure!

[Biggus Duckus]

Sounds kind of like the Elephant NFE, I think it's called.  The Soma Wolverine is very similar but the stock fork is not designed for salsa cages.  I love mine.

[kato]

I was interested in the Lauf fork and how it rode. I asked JK about his experience but didn't hear back. The only thing that I would not be sure of it that the wheel has been reported to have some play to it. Neverthe less, I'd still like to try one.

I must never have gotten your question.  I remember chatting with you about other items But dont recall seeing anything about a fork question.  Sorry about that.  I loved the Lauf!  The fork in combination with the Cutthroat frame really provided a super smooth ride.  Terrain such as that encountered on the Divide are absolutely perfect for the Lauf.  I could easily notice less fatigue by the end of day as opposed to running a rigid fork.  I've used a Niner carbon, Salsa Fargo steel, Salsa Firestarter carbon, MRP Rocksolid carbon and various traditional sus forks on my gravel/Divide bikes.  The Salsa steel and MRP (followed next by the Firestarter) are probably my top picks for compliance over washboard.  Last place would be the Niner and traditional sus forks.  Not that a regular suspension fork wont move on washboard but I really dont like the feel of a suspension fork on washboard/gravel terrain.  The Lauf is on a whole different level.  The thing is amazing on washboard and high frequency hits.  I've used it a fair amount on singletrack as well and find it extremely capable.  My Lauf is the Boost version and it handles amazingly.  If i just spin around in a parking lot I can percieve some "flex" at the front wheel but it's something I don't noticed while actually riding.  In terms of front wheel flex I'd say it is about on par with a Rock Shox Reba.  On trail I do notice the flex of my Reba and Revelation forks but I dont on the Lauf.  Hope that sort of answers your question.  PM me if you have anything else you'd like to know about.

[the tortoise]

Funny how some people would never do it again and others keep coming back time after time. I guess it all depends upon what you are looking for in a ride. My favorite ride ever? Probably not but certainly one of my most memorable due to it's length, changing scenery and people you meet along the way.

If I were to do it again and had a ton of money to throw at it I would go custom Titanium frame, lauf fork (disclaimer haven't ridden one yet but I like the concept) swept back bars, aero bars, leather saddle, thudbuster seatpost, triple crank, 10 speed rear cassette, XT hydraulic brakes, dyno hub, dyno light and recharge options off the hub. I too would go with as big of frame opening as I could. Riding a small bike with a severely sloping downtube really eats into the frame space. I would have a custom fender rack built up that would eliminate the seat bag and all my issues with a seat bag (bag tire interference, difficult mounting and dismounting, swaying and limited storage space. I don't much like sweet rolls or harnesses up front either so I could consider a custom front rack to hold gear as well. The holy grail would be to eliminate any pack on the back without having to compromise on gear.

I guess I don't understand rigid for such a long ride with tons of washboard. You are going to get a lot of suspension losses from having the bike bounce up and down all the time. You want a system that will as smoothly as possible move you forward. Bicycle quarterly has done extensive research on tires, suspension losses and wider tires on road bikes that would definitely apply to TD riding.

The final factor would be to find a reliable tire that has a super supple casing for lower rolling resistance and to run lower tire pressures to smooth out the ride. Also running tubeless will reduce your rolling resistance vs. running tubes. A rigid bike with pumped up tires may feel faster but that is because you are being bounced around more and that feels faster. Any jarring to your body will fatigue it. Lots of testing has been done on this.