Tour Divide Basics

[JMeiser]

+1 for the Mountain Laurel Designs overmitts.  These were plenty for the divide and plenty light... If you go this route, seam seal them and test their/your limits with warmth/wetness.  I can deal with wet hands for days at a time, so long as they don't get cold...I took riding gloves/mitts/and wool Ibex base layer gloves.  I wore them all, but didn't need them all...the ibex would stay at home if.

Pain, you'll have it.  Sure, take some meds to ease it.  Don't forget the basics...Drink plenty of fluids for rehydration at night and of course during the day.  Dehydration is a sure path to joint problems.  Stretch!  This is so easy to do for 20-30 minutes off the bike at night while sitting on your bag and taking in post-day nutrition and fluids.  Work it into your routine.  If you miss it a few nights during the race, oh well.  There will be times when you just want/need to crash...just don't crash without loading up on food/hydration.

A couple of other things worked well...

I also only took a few loads of ibuprofen during the race.  I normally don't take any pain meds, over the counter or prescription unless it is affecting sleep.  This is very rare for me at home and equally as rare on the trail.

Self message...You've got time while you are waiting for a meal, same with stretching.  Work it into your routine.

I used Arnicare cream late in the race after a fall in Platoro left me with a badly bruised calf.  It hurt to walk and descend, fortunately it didn't hurt climbing.  I ended up with Arnicare on the suggestion of a motorcyclist in Lima...he mentioned he used it often for sore back and arms on the bike.  I gave it a try, it worked (or seemed to) and it helped me recover from the bruising.

Get Fit to bike and shoes well before the race...noted several times in this thread

Train with the bike loaded, not always, just enough that your used to pushing a loaded bike.  My longest ride was two back to back 100's loaded on an incredibly warm April weekend in 2009.  Of course I rode other bikes than my Fargo, but the majority of my riding was on THE bike.

I've been fortunate to have good knees and I try to take care of them best possible.  I rarely have knee pain, but did during the conditioning part of the race(first seven days).  After it was gone, it never came back.  I've never had problems during Trans Iowa, just after the race with what feels like pressure build up in the joint.  It is likely swelling from over cycling of the muscles, ligaments, etc... I treat it with many days of on the bike recovery, stretching, and sometimes ice/heat.

[Pivvay]

Another trick, since almost all gloves leak eventually (seams or big hole where your hand goes), is to take all your gloves off and ride bare handed if warm enough, or wear just your WP gloves/mitts and keep the fabric gloves tucked in your shirt to stay dry. Then when the rain stops you have mostly dry gloves to put back on. Of course this doesn't work if it's super cold AND raining but that's more rare in the summer.

[Jilleo]

I brought a pair of polar fleece liner gloves and lost one in Helena. After that I just had fingerless bike gloves. I don't recall that ever being a problem except for a couple of cold thunderstorms in which my hands went numb, which the fleece gloves would help curb. I agree with Chris. Bring a light pair of warm gloves and tuck them away when it rains. I think you'll be surprised how much you don't care about dry hands given everything else that's going on.

In Juneau, those deluded types who can't stand having wet skin buy thick rubber Helly Hansen fishermen's gloves. The Lower 48 equivalent would be plastic dish gloves. Pick a pair up at most any store and toss them when no longer needed. Sure, they don't breathe, but you'll never convince me that any breathable fabric can keep out moisture indefinitely (or even for more than a few hours), no matter how techy it is. Just my opinion on the matter. Warm and wet. That is the key to cold-rainy happiness.

[phil_rad]

Another trick, since almost all gloves leak eventually (seams or big hole where your hand goes), is to take all your gloves off and ride bare handed if warm enough, or wear just your WP gloves/mitts and keep the fabric gloves tucked in your shirt to stay dry. Then when the rain stops you have mostly dry gloves to put back on. Of course this doesn't work if it's super cold AND raining but that's more rare in the summer.

Your right Chris, at some point all gloves get wet inside, at least the one's that I've owned have. I'll try out the MLD mitts though, they're light and pack small, I'll also take one pair of either long finered gloves or the half finger ones. Should be enough, if not I'll buy a new pair somewhere along the course.

 The Lower 48 equivalent would be plastic dish gloves.

They would be easy and cheap to replace! And if I run out of money I could just jump right in as a dish washer. 

[phil_rad]

Would a park tools self adhesive patch work for a big Agnes clearview air pad ? Or should I get the specific patch kit from big Agnes?

The sleeping bag I'm planning on taking is rated to 20°F, I would rather be too warm at night than freezing my buns off but seriously, is that maybe too much over kill? How cold does it get along the divide in June and July?

Whats the filling of choice? Down or synthetic?

[Mathewsen]

Would a park tools self adhesive patch work for a big Agnes clearview air pad ? Or should I get the specific patch kit from big Agnes?

The sleeping bag I'm planning on taking is rated to 20°F, I would rather be too warm at night than freezing my buns off but seriously, is that maybe too much over kill? How cold does it get along the divide in June and July?

Whats the filling of choice? Down or synthetic?

i would patch only with a manufacturer spec'd fix--then duct tape it. there is no time to waste with patch failures. plus, those park adhesive's are 'not all that' for any application. it's best is to avoid punctures altogether. as LW says upthread, clear your bivy spot of protrusions religiously. consider some tyvec or some other condom underneath.

20deg is pretty warm if you are truly racing the route (100+mi/day). i wake up in leg-sweats sometimes in my 45deg bag + goretex bivy.
choice of stuffing all depends on how light and compressible you really want to be. IMO all divide racers should accept nothing less than a 1lb sleeping bag. they're widely available and not hard to keep dry. route climatology data are linked to on TD: http://tourdivide.org/weather_resources

[phil_rad]

i would patch only with a manufacturer spec'd fix--then duct tape it. there is no time to waste with patch failures. plus, those park adhesive's are 'not all that' for any application. it's best is to avoid punctures altogether. as LW says upthread, clear your bivy spot of protrusions religiously. consider some tyvec or some other condom underneath.

20deg is pretty warm if you are truly racing the route (100+mi/day). i wake up in leg-sweats sometimes in my 45deg bag + goretex bivy.
choice of stuffing all depends on how light and compressible you really want to be. IMO all divide racers should accept nothing less than a 1lb sleeping bag. they're widely available and not hard to keep dry. route climatology data are linked to on TD: http://tourdivide.org/weather_resources

That makes sense, I'll keep what LW said in mind when bivy down for the night.

I just checked the weight of my bag, 3lbs! Too much! Do you stay warmer at night because of all the physical activity during the day? I geuss if the temps really drop you could put on more clothes and climb in.
What I've seen is that down is lighter than synthetic but if it gets wet then it takes a while to dry out, also the insulating factor drops. Pretty much a toss up. Maybe like single speed or gears?? ;-) 

[Marshal]

Some non TD specific multi-day sleep system ‘common parameters’-basics

≈1 lb bag with:
Shelter of choice-- bivy/tarp/tent etc 5-25 oz
Sleep pad of choice –wind screen to full length inflatable 3-16 oz
(comment: while racing the pad is 1st for insulation from cold ground, 2nd weight and packability and 3rd for ‘padding’ imho)

Then as needed put on/take off a:
down vest/jacket 5-10oz (also used for camp and 5:00am starts and cold descending)
a thin (under helmet style) baklava or some type full cap
dry wool sock 2 oz (rotate/wash/dry a pair or one pair for just sleep)
some or all of your riding clothes—on-off as needed (free weight as you already have it)

Quick set up-take down and compact storage are also key ‘race’ concerns ie tying off wet cords, messing with stakes, inflating pads all take time etc etc

So with a sub 3 lb system you can be mostly warm and mostly dry on most nights down to about 25 deg – more than good enough for the TD

And obviously you will pre-plan/pick your resting elevation and man-made or natural ‘shelter’ to optimize ie: low elevation, picnic tables, shelters, out houses, rock out cropping, dense tree cover, ground that will not be dew covered in the morning etc etc

Also you should be able to time a food break with some ‘dry-out’ time for a damp bag and bivy –if the sun is out and there is a little breeze it takes all of 10 min to dry a damp sub 1 lb down bag

[Pivvay]

Down for a bag without a doubt. Sub 1lbs bag is a great idea. I was colder on the CTR than ever on the Divide. Generally the Divide doesn't go *that* high and with inversions sometimes sleeping at almost summits (with a short warmup walk to the top in the AM) can be a nice strategy.

I carried a WM Highlite I've had for a few years now. There are other lighter options but I got mine for $125 used and tossed it in the washer since I bought my wife front loader$.

[JMeiser]

Your combination of bag, bivy, tarp, mat, etc...is only part of the system.  Keep in mind the clothing you'll have with/on.  A couple of night's I slept in everything I had, others it was just a base layer head to toe.  I slept cold due to lack of ground insulation a few nights.  I got my best night's sleep on the Brazos Ridge and the last night, out in the Gila (likely due to the overwhelming relief that I would finish). 

Bags are nice, but don't overlook a quilt.  I just picked up a Jacks R Better that I can't wait to test this coming spring.  My kit has gone from bag, bivy, mat to quilt, tarp, mat.  I usually carry a Tyvek footprint when for an overnighter where weight isn't a huge concern.

I am considering making an UL Bivy (sub 250g) to both protect my mat and add a couple of degrees of warmth for cold nights.  Something with a cuben or Silnylon bottom and a breathable top, roomy enough for my mat and quilt, no zippers, just a drawstring or flap closure. 

[phil_rad]

Joe,
I'm new to this ultra-light bikepacking thing, could you explain to me the benifits of a quilt opposed to a regular sleeping bag? I heard of them on this forum but I don't know sqwat about what their uses are or downfalls.
Thanks!

Phil

[Pivvay]

In short, quilts have no bottom insulation since you lay on it and squish it anyway. They're lighter, easier to vent when it's warm and are easier to get in and out of.

Check out jacks are better or Nunatak on the web for some pictures and more info.

[phil_rad]

I just did. Pretty interesting. No zippers, less weight. What about drafts though? I would think that the cold would creep in through the opening on the bottom. But what do I know. Sure is light!
The WM highlite looks good too.
I'm definitely going to rethink my sleeping system, as far as my bag goes. I'm still going to use my lunar solo tent, really light and easy to set up. I like that extra protection you get from a tent. It packs small that I can put it in my E.D. seatbag with all of my clothes.

[phil_rad]

Anybody ever heard of the "Nunatak Arc A.T." ? Rated to 40°, this thing extremely light! Price is pretty reasonable at 213$. Compared to what I can get over her in Germany, here your talking 300-400€! I'll be buying my new bag/quilt in the States. ;-)

[Marshal]

I just did. Pretty interesting. No zippers, less weight. What about drafts though? I would think that the cold would creep in through the opening on the bottom. But what do I know. Sure is light!
The WM highlite looks good too.
I'm definitely going to rethink my sleeping system, as far as my bag goes. I'm still going to use my lunar solo tent, really light and easy to set up. I like that extra protection you get from a tent. It packs small that I can put it in my E.D. seatbag with all of my clothes.

As suspected, quilts have one main disadvantage – if you toss and turn you might suck in some cold air.  Note: A bivy can actually help in keeping the air seal around the quilt/pad vs a tent.

So if you sleep still/soundly, and mostly flat—ie on your back, they can be every bit as warm as a bag with equal loft. 

Unfortunately for me I am a side to side to side knees tucked up and untucked sleeper so I use a old 17.5 oz Montbell

[phil_rad]

I'm a restless sleeper as well. I'm looking at big agnes pitch pine right now. My pad would fit nicely, it's also from BA. I hate it to slip off the pad, and cause I move around I think it would be a good combo for me.

[bmike-vt]

i went with a BA pad and bag (fishhawk bag and insulated air core) as i side sleep and move around quite a bit. the ba bags are quilt like in that they have no bottom, but can hold a pad (good for when i hammock...).

love the idea of a quilt though... was given the ba gear as a very nice gift - so it will get used and abused first...

[DaveC]

Quilts do let in drafts, hence the common use of breathable wind bivvys.  I recently sewed a plain fabric bottom onto my quilt.  I think that will be a good solution.

[Pivvay]

I have a Nunatak Arc AT. It's a cool little quilt. I've found the WM bag "easier" for races so I bring that and just pour my tired body in.

As long as quilts are cut big enough and you learn how to roll inside them, side sleeping and turning isn't a huge deal. They're harder to push to the extreme cold limit than a comparable bag but they're much easier at the warm end of things. A compromise like most things I suppose.

[phil_rad]

I was curious as to how you vets keep your hydration bladders free from mold? I have the experience that after a while mold starts to grow in the tubes and bladder. Do you just throw it away and buy a new one? I was thinking of taking along the little cleaning brush and some cleaning tabs.