Winter Shoes--back to the drawing board

[Pivvay]

VB goes next to skin or usually with a thin liner. Yes you get somewhat damp inside the VB but it keeps all the outer insulation dry which is the key. It's easy to change liners, it's hard to dry out boots. All the insulation should be outside the VB.

[Jilleo]

Dealing with overflow: I used trash bags in 2008 and they failed on me, partly my fault, but trash bags aren't very durable and can fail easily. If you don't mind a little extra weight (9 oz), Wiggy's lightweight waders are tough and waterproof when worn for short stretches. I've only tested mine in streams around Juneau, never used them in a real-world situation, but I've heard from people in Western Alaska who swear by them. I plan to haul them to the White Mountains 100 next March.

http://wiggys.com/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=5

[bmike-vt]

VB goes next to skin or usually with a thin liner. Yes you get somewhat damp inside the VB but it keeps all the outer insulation dry which is the key. It's easy to change liners, it's hard to dry out boots. All the insulation should be outside the VB.

thanks. makes sense, as you need to contain the vapor...

[Kid Riemer]

I slow and old which will explain the following:  Don't use clipless pedals for your true long distance snow riding. Just get some boots that are too large and run flat pedals that offer you could peg placement.

Earlier someone said that they thought being clipped in helped them keep riding in marginal snow conditions...perhaps.

But I can think of numerous occasions where having platform pedals has made it easier to start up again in marginal snow conditions. All without having to worry about having a heat sucking metal cleat attached to the bottom of my foot.

To me, a metal cleat equals increased, unnecessary risk in true cold.

[Slim]

If you are modifying boots maybe a pair of winter mountaineering boots?  They have a stiff sole for pedaling and attaching the cleats.

[timroz]

I'm done.

Lakes 4 sizes too big (50 wides).
HUGE neoprene sock (fishing wader) glued to the outside with Barge Cement.  Left it loose up top to get foot in and adjust BOA thingy.
Sole cut off neoprene sock.
4 screws in Lake sole.  Need to keep out of Dalzel Creek this year!
RBH, Storm sock, smartwool thick sock layering.
O.R. Gator over the whole thing if postholing in more than 10" of snow.

I can stand in 10" of water indefinitely w/o getting anything other than the outer layer of neoprene wet.

Done.

I'll post some pics later.

[sean salach]

tease.

[timroz]

Can't seem to attach images.  See them here:

http://teestern.blogspot.com/

[ScottM]

Can't seem to attach images.  See them here:

Fixed that.  Sorry.

My NEOS overboots should be arriving today.  Hoping that'll be enough (over hiking shoes) for some weaksauce AZ snow biking (Kaibab Plateau).  No way I am invested enough (yet) to go to all the lengths you guys are.  Fun to read about though.

[timroz]

I've been bouncing Neo's around in my head for 2 years.  In the end I really wanted to be waterproof and clipped in at the same time.

Let us know how they work.

[sean salach]

Here's my solution:

Step 1: chop up an old pair of cycling shoes.





Step 2: cut out the front portion of the sole.



Step 3: Shave down the non-studded tread on a pair of Stabilicers. Shave down the tread on the spd sole so that the screws on the stabilicers will still contact the ground.



Step 4: Double check measurements and alignment to be sure it clears your crank arm, and bolt the spd sole to the bottom of the Stabilicers.





Step 5: Buy some $50 Cabella's snow runners in the correct size, or any other warm boot of your choosing, and strap em in.





What's that? It's -80F, you've stuffed your tires with grass and want to go ride in your spds? No problem, your pac boots will work in these as well.





Add a gaiter as necessary for post-holing.


Pros:

-Stiff
-Warm
-Excellent grip on ice
-The stabilicers do not move around on my boots at all.
-Long hike-a-bike? Remove the Stabilicers(takes 5 seconds) and march along in your comfy hiking boot. Or leave em on it there's a chance of encountering ice.
-Need to walk around inside on a possibly wet floor? No problem, remove the stabilicers and you wont have to worry about chewing up the floor with the screws in the bottom of your boot.
-Wanna ride in hiking boots in the summer, with spds? No problem again.
-Size 13 feet? No problem. I ordered the Snow runners in size 14 as recommended by Cabela's for use with thick socks. I used size XL Stabilicers and they're almost a perfect match for the bottom of the Snow Runners in 14. Stabilicers come in XXL too I believe.

Cons:
-You'll need to raise your saddle and bars an inch or so, since the cleat is much further away from your foot.


I'll probably use some bigger washers under the bolt heads, just to be sure they don't rip out. If I had more time and money, I would probably do a layup of carbon fiber on the top of the Stabilicers, with a cut out for the cleat. It would be stiffer, and look better.


Even if you bought everything new(using a really cheap pair of cycling shoes), total cost would be around $150, and you would be getting a nice pair of winter hiking boots out of the deal.

[sean salach]

Alright, the modded stabilicers weren't quite up to snuff. Really heavy, restricted to winter boots, and frankly, a bit of a pita to make. The velcro clogged with snow, and without the use of pedal extenders, the cleat HAD to be mounted off center by enough to be annoying.

So, I decided on a similar, but different approach. Snowshoe bindings/crampons. Immensely simpler, more adjustable, stiffer, stronger, and lighter. The only modification needed was to drill 4 holes in each crampon for the cleat plate. The crampons happened to be in the right position for no cleat/pedal interference. They strap onto sneakers and boots perfectly. They work on Neos(with the sneakers inside) as well, but have to be strapped to them a bit off center. It doesn't feel as awkward having them off center as the off center cleat on the stabilicers though. I'm guessing it's got something to do with the crampon being a stiffer connection.